5. More Turntable updates

I've now made versions of these to allow for shrinkage of the pla

I added roughly 0.675 Degrees to the 90 degrees to allow for the shrinkage of the pla.
So the angle is 90.675 on one lot and the other is 90.0 degrees exactly for filament that does not seem to shrink.

I'm in Australia and used some https://cocoonproducts.com.au/product-category/3dfilament/ pla for my first tests and THIS (Grey) SHRANK.

For my second iteration I used some https://3dfillies.com/ PLA+ and this stuff didnt. I also admit to being a real fan boy of this stuff and think it's fantastic. This (Silver) DID NOT SHRINK

So I hope one of these files helps you.

The best thing to do is print 1 corner and then put a "Set Square" on it and see if it is 90 degrees. If less than 90 degrees then print the file without a suffix of _90
Which one to print first is going to be up to you, I only just now discovered this little gem and am now having to reprint in 3dfillies PLA+.

I have included the fusion360 files so you can adjust to suit your own situation....................so you're on your own from here. ;-D

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This text above now comes in the zip file as a txt file for your information but I felt I needed to add some more information to this as just having both these files, the 90 degree one and the 90.675 degree one, doesn't necessarily guarantee you'll end up with 4 quarters that line up exactly.

As it's winter here and keeping my place warm while I print can be a little problematic at times.

It seems all my filament is subject to shrinkage at different rates depending on the room temperature at the time.

I'm still experimenting but just be aware you really do need to print one and check for square before committing one way or another.

The following picture is the print where I discovered that one filament was not shrinking and the 90.675 was now overcompensating for the shrinkage..............................so I sanded it for ages with some course sandpaper stuck to a sheet of glass I recycled from an old set of bathroom scales.

I don't have the time to help you customize things but I include all the stl and fusion360 files for you for free with no conditions, so knock yourself out have a go at it and good luck.


So much sanding :-(

Before clean up.
Some light sanding and glue "squeeze out" being cleaned up. As an experiment I used a new to me, glue that foams and expands to fill gaps for this, so a lot of clean up, but worth it I think.

Some more of the glue squeeze out underneath and testing on the old music stand to make sure all that sanding didn't compromise things at all. All good, it spins nicely.

A light coat of some "Acrylic lacquer grey primer" so I got it looking a little nicer. It will be covered in paint soon enough so wasn't strictly necessary :-)
Then some strategic lighting.......and presto, advertising like quality (Hiding most of the imperfections)  lol

4. Turntable Update

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z26afzy1mpyvbql/2018_Turntable.zip?dl=0

I added nubs for turning the turntable which also has room for longer screws.

So now there is a distinct Top and Bottom for the desktop version.

I made the holes for the screws to suit a 3mm x 50?  The hole itself small enough to allow you to either drill out or directly tap with 3mm tap thread.

I put in a nut trap to help with adding in a screw. See pictures below

Click any picture to enlarge

3. Second varient of the turntable to suit a dowel

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z26afzy1mpyvbql/2018_Turntable.zip?dl=0

Ok I added the newest version to the zip file. This is so you can mount it to a pole of some description and just let it spin on the pole. It doesn't require printing 8 quarters and joining, only 4.

I made a slot for a cable tie if you want, even if just for glue up.

You can edit the fusion file (Included) to fit most poles you might encounter. This is designed to fit my 22mm pole and is set to 23mm for some slop for spinning.

2. A new Turntable for working on printers

So here is the new Turntable. This one will be for sitting printers on, either for working on, fixing or building etc or if they are in an enclosure and I need to reach the sides or back of them.


There are 30 8mm ball bearings in this, but 100 would have looked a little fuller :-)

Here is  a random link to some from ebay:-
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50X-8mm-Steel-Ball-For-Bearing-Slingshot-Ammo-Catapult-Toy-Bike-Outdoor-Game-fK/202129248455?_trkparms=aid%3D555019%26algo%3DPL.BANDIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190540%26meid%3D8785ff9d29584f718c5f8ff3d64cbcf4%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D202129248455&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226

There will be some video of the TT carrying 5 - 10kg of weight to show it can handle the weight below.

Here are the stl files and the fusion360 file for you to play with:-
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z26afzy1mpyvbql/2018_Turntable.zip?dl=0

Please note this is a prototype and still unfinished but for what it is, it seems to work quite well atm.

At some point I might make one that can be printed in one piece to sit on a 400mm x 400mm build plate so you can print it in one piece at a time. Since I include the fusion360 files it is also something you can do for your self so it probably wont be for some time that I get around to it.

I used nails and then cut them short as joiners but it is set up to use 1.75 mm filament if need be.

 Glue on a flat surface for best result held by clamps or weights

Some self adhesive strips of neoprene for grip on the base seems vital for keeping things where you want.

Here is my PRUSA clone is sitting on the Turntable. Unfortunately it spins and slides on the surface because PLA is slippery

So, some of that rubber shelf liner is needed to prevent the slipping.

I used the old, (now discarded) bottom print as a cutting template and cut out a circle.

Then sprayed it with some spray adhesive and suck it down

Here it is working like a charm, even if the printer is sitting on it a little precariously.

A little re-balancing got it to sit quietly and spin really well. You could just as easily add a sheet of say 5mm MDF or something to the top so the printer sat a little more balance on it.

Here it is with about 90 bearings in it.

1. Designing and making a turntable for painting using 3d printing

I realise this can be done by pretty much anyone but just seeing how someone else approached this task might have prevented some of my decisions and "Faux Pas" So I hope it helps someone else thinking about making one.

My old turntable met with a clumsy accident recently, so adding on to what I learnt from making it, I'm making another one.......or two.

It is mounted to an old robust music stand which is height adjustable.

Here it is outside where I do all my spray painting. I use acrylic lacquer automotive spray paints and have done so for 20+ years so I know them really well. I did a tafe course on spray painting which I used primarily on signs as I was a signwriter for many years.

I happily spray outside knowing the pros and cons and even spray right next to my car where the paint drys so quickly it ends up just like dust if it doesn't get blown away by the wind first, it just hoses off.

This bike tank was done so long ago I've forgotten a lot about it. I do remember the client showing me the script Typeface from a magazine and wanting it in gold leaf. This was when gold was around $400 an oz so it would have been 24 carat I think. I was really hoping he wanted some pin striping and other embellishments but for reason of his own he didn't :-(

This is the base where the turntable fits onto the music stand. It is printed in 4 pieces so it can fit on my 3d printer. The broken tabs you can see here when all 4 piece are glued together form a hole which fits on the stand as 23mm diameter. One of the more obvious reasons it broke was the thin walls that make up the hole. The fact that it was something incredibly heavy that broke it in the first place would have just ensured it broke elsewhere :-) So fix number 1: Strengthen the walls.

It's flip side. The hole takes the spigot which is connected to the spider that has wheels on it to help the top turn. This design was based on my old microwave oven setup. As I found out this complexity was completely unnecessary as pla is so slick the wheels found no purchase and I could have just run the two plates on top of each other without the need for any other intermediate stage.

The wheels also ran in a guide just in case it wanted to wander off.

So here are the components in reverse order.


I set out to redesign my painting turntable and here was revelation and design modification number 2.

I found out that the bits that make up the hole that slide onto the music stand made the bottom piece, turn on the pole quite nicely.

So all that effort I put into making a lazy Susan like device wasn't necessary. All I needed to do was thicken the walls and to add a bit more stability and add some more length to the sleeve.

So version 2

It turns out that in Fusion 360, it is probably better for me to first create a circle then to slice it into sections, than try and make it using an ark that my human eye didn't realise wasn't exactly 90 degrees lol So if you look closely you can see where none of the edges line up to one another properly.

[EDIT:- It turns out the gap was due to shrinkage in the plastic itself and was consistent so I redesigned the 90 degrees angle to 90.675 which was the shrink percentage of one quarter of the Turntable.]

It works and would have been more than adequate to use but I had also adjusted the way the lap joints met each other and was allowing 0.25 gap.

This also added to the whole thing having ridges on the top and it turned out to be more accurate to not allow for a gap. It turned out to better to make simple lap joints and sand back if needed so there was not ridge where they meet up.

So on to version 3.

I'm still not happy with this from a design /modelling / quantity of filament used, point of view.
....but any of them would have worked adequately and all sins would have been covered in grey primer and out of sight and you wouldn't been any the wiser. 

I made this section different this time around and I'm not really happy with my decisions. Some filing and sanding will get these to join up nicely and glue together really well though.

For the hole in the centre you could easily model a very small stand so this could sit on a table for example. Or you could model and adapter to accommodate smaller dowel rods available from the local hardware store.

I was going to offer the fusion file and stl file to anyone who wanted it but if you need something like this then designing and printing your own might be a better road to travel.

The one piece sits on a 220 x 220 print bed and is 150 x 150mm you simply print 4 of them and glue together.

Testing a new filament

Fendi Suyanto from https://www.xtron.com.au/ contacted me and asked if I would try some of his new filament branded Mamorubot a while ago and I finally got around to trying it.


Normally like a stuck record I tell everyone to do 3 tests on any new filament.

A Temperature Tower Test
A PID Tune at the ideal temperature from the first test
And a extruder multiplier test
(I didnt :-)

The roll came in plain packaging (see the pics)

 

 Sorry about the blurriness

I didn't do any testing and just jumped on in ;-)
PLA is pretty forgiving and will handle a wide range of temps so I picked 205 at the hot end and my usual way too high 65 for the bed :-)

So nice on the roll

The test print was bastet and it ended up with some issues but they were me and my settings, because well.......NOT testing the filament before hand at all.

It printed really nicely despite my treating it so badly. With some tests to zero in on the ideal settings for your printer, this stuff will print like butter I've no doubt.

I'm the one in GOLD the orange one is abs!

Yeah my printer needs some settings adjusted but I really like this brand of filament

Its a nice colour gold pla+ at around $32.00 plus $9.95 shipping for this premium gold metallic. Other standard pla is about $25.90. The gradient pla looks pretty nice as well :-)

While the roll of filament was free to me, I wasn't paid or even asked to do this review. This was off my own bat and feel it's the least I can do in thanks. I really like this metallic gold and happily recommend it.

Now all I have to get him to do is send me a roll of all his other stuff in every colour hahhahaha just kidding. Thanks to Mark for setting this up, he gets little thanks for all he does for the 3d printing Australia Facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/891050284277179/


Try it, I don't think you will be disappointed