tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48886005851902866862024-03-13T15:07:39.121-07:00Luke's 3d PrintingLukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.comBlogger185125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-16949883336670562012021-01-28T15:02:00.008-08:002021-01-28T15:15:39.643-08:00Getting Back into Archery and 3d printing accesories for it<p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">As the title says I've been slowly buying new Archery equipment. I took it up in 08 and shot for a while as I thought it would help my mental state </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">then stopped in 09 ish</span>. It turns out my gut feeling was correct and ex forces people who might need to de-stress have it recommended to them as a way to take their mind off things.<br /><br />The first thing I wanted to do is to make some Beiter Limb alignment gauges by copying a set I borrowed off someone from my new club <a href="https://www.facebook.com/TuggeranongArcheryClub">https://www.facebook.com/TuggeranongArcheryClub</a> alas I couldn't find anyone to lend me some that I could trace or photograph or take home so I could use my vernier calipers on, taking their measurement :-)<br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"> </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglRDOA9FBrgSyYjsR_IhP85lS-baRg2FwoJUH70PcI4WqaQXoXfF4v4BHj1SBeBZG2aBhGCq0Gz4oafK_a6l63JgpTsVRlTaA9kU6LbOPMNTfzKvlcvkWqxEqjUQcLkR40Xg_M_cop_qg/s548/CanadaarcheryOnline.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="548" data-original-width="548" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglRDOA9FBrgSyYjsR_IhP85lS-baRg2FwoJUH70PcI4WqaQXoXfF4v4BHj1SBeBZG2aBhGCq0Gz4oafK_a6l63JgpTsVRlTaA9kU6LbOPMNTfzKvlcvkWqxEqjUQcLkR40Xg_M_cop_qg/s320/CanadaarcheryOnline.png" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image stolen from https://www.canadaarcheryonline.com/collections/bow-square/products/copy-of-beiter-tri-liner-tool</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /> </span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">These help you align the limbs to the riser and your string in a straight line down the centre of the bow.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"> <br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7aDpwAkCuD9HSz5_9_9xLSh2F5KsgeoP9-1gv_Jw4tzzhvXEWyOJwq7gASqJJJAHDqrN_Fr-NEOhrzGD6Lu5JApbjgitsf1hI5N6IKHn-gL7_RkHKe6QBNcvrJyY-K74nn5nngC_tNTY/s4624/20210125_202446.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7aDpwAkCuD9HSz5_9_9xLSh2F5KsgeoP9-1gv_Jw4tzzhvXEWyOJwq7gASqJJJAHDqrN_Fr-NEOhrzGD6Lu5JApbjgitsf1hI5N6IKHn-gL7_RkHKe6QBNcvrJyY-K74nn5nngC_tNTY/s320/20210125_202446.jpg" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /> </span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Since I couldn't borrow a set, I just used their principle to make my own and they seem to work fine if a little fiddly to take off.<br /><br /><br />Then I made a way to carry my new arrows so their vanes / feathers didn't get damaged while transporting them. As it always does, I took a few attempts to get the design right, but I'm very happy and way too excited over this design. :-)<br /><br /><br /> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-MGIVWlvSSrHY9MuPRuoqwFKuE3JDkjugAboZP6b5mVuRIU6_lxRfBoVlpLonOO7OT3SjCs8Y8jsT8JBsmx_awLLLtYr9FZkGMXHpbAUj0dEfQbZv8efD-_tjy4dk17yX_I7oCEQC5MU/s788/ArrowHolder_28-1-21.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="769" data-original-width="788" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-MGIVWlvSSrHY9MuPRuoqwFKuE3JDkjugAboZP6b5mVuRIU6_lxRfBoVlpLonOO7OT3SjCs8Y8jsT8JBsmx_awLLLtYr9FZkGMXHpbAUj0dEfQbZv8efD-_tjy4dk17yX_I7oCEQC5MU/s320/ArrowHolder_28-1-21.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br />Printed in some old black petg I got from <a href="http://3dfillies.com">3dfillies.com</a> The test prints were all done in PLA in some nice colours using the end of rolls of mostly 3dfillies and a roll of esun filament that never seems to end lol. The old esun predates most of the fillies stuff as I didn't use it that much after discovering 3dfilles filament.<br /><br /><br /> <br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbtH545yb54qImVu-rZu_zHztvEK8p9UQX0NJC1NifAtebTbSK49uRnI8w8eUQICjNkPQCdH1gyhu7uTecgDcBh0M80vduWGHxY4qt78jJ1MhjUkfTPmxyyG2aRK2BBCUjkRuNlOyhvQM/s4624/20210128_090111.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4624" data-original-width="3468" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbtH545yb54qImVu-rZu_zHztvEK8p9UQX0NJC1NifAtebTbSK49uRnI8w8eUQICjNkPQCdH1gyhu7uTecgDcBh0M80vduWGHxY4qt78jJ1MhjUkfTPmxyyG2aRK2BBCUjkRuNlOyhvQM/s320/20210128_090111.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p>One print at each end works so well, and way stronger then you might think ;-D</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn3a3HgEmi-1yW2MCzcnADIEQhIbZ4khA968H0DSEtAeQYII8gIl42xj9smeXnSlbZzBbuTXdr29m9n1hkGZNyouBhYAzuREKOjN3rPdJEo_jVrbSVK4lWnfiVCrg4XF-5AwyiMkZPEXM/s4624/20210128_113037.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3468" data-original-width="4624" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn3a3HgEmi-1yW2MCzcnADIEQhIbZ4khA968H0DSEtAeQYII8gIl42xj9smeXnSlbZzBbuTXdr29m9n1hkGZNyouBhYAzuREKOjN3rPdJEo_jVrbSVK4lWnfiVCrg4XF-5AwyiMkZPEXM/s320/20210128_113037.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>The bundle of 12 arrows then all fit into an Australia Post mailing tube. The end caps had some open cell foam hot-glued onto them for added protection.</p><p></p><br /><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPDaljjGiqmH_hkcnhos_Oggp3ohwAdE4bVwdZGQfc1cE6m8d8r-xAa-7ANsXpZt4NC4WeHEagl65JxpJ_9yodP9xtDaZNWtl948U6JtrHBSMZ6yYB5QjclJmdp9NdTZAWhTs8_21JsRs/s4600/20210128_131019.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2185" data-original-width="4600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPDaljjGiqmH_hkcnhos_Oggp3ohwAdE4bVwdZGQfc1cE6m8d8r-xAa-7ANsXpZt4NC4WeHEagl65JxpJ_9yodP9xtDaZNWtl948U6JtrHBSMZ6yYB5QjclJmdp9NdTZAWhTs8_21JsRs/s320/20210128_131019.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />I painted the tube with some acrylic paint and it all turned out better than I could have hoped. <br /><br /><br />The new bow is a 28 lbs Recurve bow with a WNS Explorer DX Riser, WNS Elite Fibre / Foam limbs. All coming in for a 68'' bow.<br />Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-72346572017158123382020-06-16T01:07:00.001-07:002020-06-16T01:07:48.663-07:00Blog update 16/06/20202020 sheech what a terrible year :-)<br /><br />Not much going on as my main printer had a heated bed issue and I've been lax about fixing it.<br />This will get fixed but I'm taking some time to take a break from 3d printing and moderating facebook pages etc<br /><br />This has been great so far for my mental health and should have done it much sooner. <br /><br />I keep a diary of ideas and projects that I will get around to soon. I still have a model I need to paint and mount that suffered in the procrastinating :-)<br /><br />I might dig out the Prusa clone printer I'm building and see if I can get that up and running as well. <br /><br /><br /><br />Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-7722887492288623342019-07-20T22:23:00.001-07:002020-01-14T12:59:24.276-08:00AirBrush Paint caddy from empty filament spool that doubles as a turntable for painting<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This project started life as a way to use up some spare perspex I had laying around and to get all my old Createx airbrush paint out of a cotton bag.<br /><br /><br />I'd just bought some more paint from a local Aldi on a whim and had finally gotten around to fixing the blown capacitor on my compressor.<br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here's the first idea I was working on that used the spare perspex. My mistake was, and would have been easily fixed, had I continued on with it, would have just been to make the 3d printed top a lot thicker so it didn't flop down and bow. <br /><br />This disappointed me, but that's what you get when you're prototyping, and trying to save on filament use, I guess.<br /><br />Polyalchemy Elixir pla Orange from <a href="https://www.phaser3d.com/">https://www.phaser3d.com/<br /><br /><br /></a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Not a bad idea and it fulfilled the criteria as a paint caddy I guess, but it wasn't giving me that excited "I'm on to something here" feeling, so I tried something different.<br /><br /><br /></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlwji46yfiKoTQh_hAhpnlivQ4tOhBS_l8M47T2Q9LlEu6ADuhrhoEv8U6zm1amR5uYbzz5gvVcPB3SDyQqsQsJc5lxgGy7t6WPyWQpjO8jESSBLuB6-_mVXRDFDeZDANNxRb1YpwRWEU/s1600/20190721_132955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlwji46yfiKoTQh_hAhpnlivQ4tOhBS_l8M47T2Q9LlEu6ADuhrhoEv8U6zm1amR5uYbzz5gvVcPB3SDyQqsQsJc5lxgGy7t6WPyWQpjO8jESSBLuB6-_mVXRDFDeZDANNxRb1YpwRWEU/s400/20190721_132955.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />Despite using a larger nozzle on my 3d printer, It still used a lot of filament and still wasn't exciting me, So I thought about using the empty spools of filament that everyone who 3d prints, has lying around. Throwing out plastic has always concerned me!<br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I found an empty roll from a now sadly out of business, and used a number of tools to drill holes into what I decided was going to be the top of the spool when laying down on its side.<br /><br />This then got me thinking and the possibilities and excitement began <br /><br /><br />It occurred to me that with as many small bottles of paint I now have, I would be wanting to make a few of these and since I usually use pretty much one brand of filament these days <br /><br /><a href="https://3dfillies.com/">https://3dfillies.com</a> <br /><br />I focused on this one brand<br /><br /><br />I would need a way to join a few of these spools together and then I got kind of side tracked, <br />Compliant Mechanisms had just mad e splash on the scene and had me hooked.<br /><br />The idea that I might be able to use a compliant mechanism to join two of these rolls together along with a carrying capability to allow the centre of balance to work to my advantage.<br /><br />After the usual hours of drawings to get my head around the concept I settled on three designs to try.<br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The idea was that the prong would be spring loaded? ganged into threes and push into the hole in the centre of the spool. A hook and eyelet would be screwed into each end so they could be chained together. This would allow you to carry and not tip or spill any of the bottles in the caddy.<br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After a lot of test prints, I decided that I'd indulged my idea for way too long and went back to an earlier idea I had brushed off, to indulge my Compliant Mech designs.<br /><br />I then looked at ways to drill the holes to accommodate the paint tubes and this is going to depend on your brand of paint, or whatever it is you want to store, and the size of the bottles.<br /><br />I looked at three way to make the holes, but this depended on what I had, that was even close to the sizes I needed.<br /><br />1. Hole saw kit i have.<br />2. Forstner bit<br />3. Christmas tree bit also called a stepped bit<br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />While I settled on a hole saw it was mainly because I had one size that suited both my bottle sizes. I would certainly suggest a stepped bit if you can find one with a good range of sizes and practice learning how to set the stopping point, if you aren't going all the way through with one.<br /><br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /><br />It was about now that I realised this would probably work really well as an idea and it dawned on me that I had only one of the clear spools, and decided to make this exclusively for the 3d Fillies spools because I have so many that are nearly empty now.<br /><br />This decision now dictates all my measurements from this point. You would need to modify the files I will eventually upload to do this for another sized spool or just copy the design idea.<br />I got out an empty black Fillies spool and using a heat gun easily removed all of the labels.<br /><br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">First off, I used my caliper to find the right sizes of the spool and committed it to paper.<br /><br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /><br />Then off into Fusion 360 to model up the spool which I can no longer find in the fusion cloud lol I do think I might have it exported and saved on my laptop but I've yet to check that. edit yep got it phew! :-)<br /><br />I got another 2 holes in the design and went from 8 on the clear spool to 10 on the black. <br /><br />You could, if you're able to use a pedestal drill and some wooden supports, be able to fit in more at this size or smaller if you are careful and have done this kind of thing before.<br /><br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /><br />Then I took a screen shot of the face of the hole pattern and brought it into Affinity Photo, my photoshop equivalent and scaled it up to the size of the actually roll.<br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /><br />Then I used a light spray of some adhesive I have, to coat the back of the paper after printing it out, and stuck it lightly to the spool.<br /><br />I then used an awl to poke some holes in the centre of each hole that needed drilling then using a small stepped drill bit I made some small pilot holes for my hole-saw to be guided by.<br />I drilled all the holes then cleaned up the sharp edges left behind with my de-burring tool.<br /><br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />Now back into Fusion to design the turntable part of this design.<br /><br />The thread that make this modular are a real pain and causing me no end of trouble as they need to be customised to suit the diameters I'm needing.<br /><br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The spool sits about 15mm above the base and only extends to the depth-extent of the spool and this is where the first thread is.<br /><br />The yellow print in this is the second stage, and has two threads, male and female to which the base and the top, or another section, if needed is screwed on before adding the top which will also have a small handle.<br /><br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Purple PLA <a href="https://3dfillies.com/plasilk-filament-175mm-1kg">https://3dfillies.com/plasilk-filament-175mm-1kg</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Yellow filament is some old Blueprinted pla I had. I tried searching for their new name and address but nothing is coming up so I'm assuming they're closed down now<br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />Both spools spin beautifully and I do have some video but its too large to upload. (Read as lazy)<br /><br />I've now designed and am ready to print the top which has a handle but I'm still reprinting the main section (Yellow in photos) that would be the one reprinted if you wanted to stack more spools.<br /><br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="_mh6 _wsc" id="cch_fc9f03b6bf042"><span class="_3oh- _58nk">I sorted out the threads and they now work without a lot of sanding etc.
<br /><br />I realised you could get to the lower spools contents by simply lifting the top spool doh!
This means that the 80mm gap I left between spools could be lowered .... I haven't checked by how much yet though.
<br /><br />You could use the top handle print just on the one spool as all the threads are the same.<br /><br /><br />I looked quickly at other paint bottles available and found that many of them are even smaller and some kind of mods would be needed to accommodate them or simply dedicate a single modified spool to the smaller bottles.
Still a bit of work to go. <br /><br />-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br />Here are some fantastic Australian airbrush paints that will go on a wide range of surfaces and take a wide range of clear coats.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.airbrushasylum.com.au/store/c69/Trident_Colours.html">https://www.airbrushasylum.com.au/store/c69/Trident_Colours.html</a> <br /><br /><br />More information on the Trident range of airbrush paint.<br /><br /><a href="https://youtu.be/VJbK8B8btos">https://youtu.be/VJbK8B8btos</a> <br /><br /><br />_____________________________________________________________<br /><br />Needless to say you could make this to suit anything and not just airbrush paint :-D<br /><br /><br /></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span data-offset-key="f1e9b-0-0"><span data-text="true">Added another layer </span></span><span class="_21wj" data-offset-key="f1e9b-1-0" style="background-image: url("https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/emoji.php/v9/t4c/1/16/1f642.png");"><span class="_7464"><span data-offset-key="f1e9b-1-0"><span data-text="true">:-)</span></span></span></span><span data-offset-key="f1e9b-2-0"><span data-text="true"> Found out you could store or use to feed filament to a printer lol</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you go higher I'd increase the size of the base inside the fusion file from the 130mm to say 200mm</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">NOTE:</span></b></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"> This is still a WIP and the files are subject to change on a whim!!! <br />Attribution Open Source as usual.<br /><br />Here are the files for you to play with if you got this far.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/xygkk7tbsh1k5zt/Airbrush%20Tray.zip?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/xygkk7tbsh1k5zt/Airbrush%20Tray.zip?dl=0</a></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /><br /><br /><u><b>The duality of this design</b></u><br />Using just the base and a spool you can also turn this into an airbrushing turntable for small to medium sized items.<br /><br />This video is showing them being turned into a turntable for some air brushing. More work would be needed, like attaching something to either side like a circle of mdf and screwed to stop it from coming off. I'm thinking 6mm mdf not the 12mm I show here. But that would be up to you.<br /><br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-8319856505163058052019-05-31T15:50:00.002-07:002019-05-31T17:37:08.394-07:00 Creality printers, their cooling fans and ducts Part 2<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Chuck just released a follow up to the fan duct video that this blog post was discussing.<br /></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />His main point I think, was that his Cura profile for pla made the most difference. He is most likely right about this as the video evidence shows and you can't fault him for this. He goes on to talk about Chris Riley and his own follow up video about Chucks results, and posits other takes on what is going on. <br /><br />Chris uses tape to block the flow and this was one of the options I suggested in Part 1. I didn't even consider tape for it in this location though, I was thinking to place it over the bottom third of the face of the fan for testing lol.<br /><br /> My mind was stuck on designing and making a solid set of partitions for everything. D'oh!<br />(Slowly licks closest window, while </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">drooling </span></span>heavily lol)<br /><br /><br /></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />My own issue and focus still, is that if you're only printing pla then you probably wont need to take this research any further. My continuing issue with it, is that profiles etc, dont always translate over to other filaments like petg that are often fussed over in trying to get them correct and string free, and I suspect this applies to other types of filament as well. <br /><br />Not being able to control what and where things are being cooled limits you and reduces the control you have over the process.<br /><br />You only need to look back to how the Prusa extruder is set up and how it works with target specific fans doing different jobs individually. This gives you more control, and I prefer this thought process. <br /><br />I haven't looked at the </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Hero Me Fan Duct closely yet, but will find it and link to it in here so everything is together. <br /><br />Here is the general search on Thingiverse on the "Hero Me by </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/mediaman">mediaman</a>" as there are a number of revisions and versions with extras etc<br /><br /><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Hero+Me+Fan+Duct&dwh=45cf1a7c676d06">https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Hero+Me+Fan+Duct&dwh=45cf1a7c676d06</a> <br /><br />Here is the OEM or original Creality extruder setup with a leveling probe allowance.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3317985">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3317985</a><br /><br />Here are the two I'm thinking of as they match whats going on in my addled brain atm <br /><br /><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917<br /><br />https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3092044/</a><br /><br />I think the only thing to do at this point is to print the Hero Me files and test it out on my rig, and test some petg with stringing tests, to see how well it works. <br /><br />I also have some spare e3d v6 direct drive setups and a Titan extruder that I could take off one of the other printers. One is already half disassembled right now anyway, and make a design for them, but lets not have another unfinished project laying around right now lol<br /></span></span>Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-882535157106237392019-05-29T22:22:00.002-07:002019-05-31T14:58:45.270-07:00Creality printers, their cooling fans and ducts Part 1<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">A few weeks ago I watched Chuck Hellebucks YouTube video about whether you need a cooling fan on a Creality 3d printer.<br /><br /></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br />He discovers that the heat Heat Sink cooling fan, as opposed to the part cooling fan, is doing more than is asked of it and the overflow of this fan is cooling your part to the point that your part cooling fan isn't really needed.<br /><br /><br /></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /><br />As you can see in this picture the front fan at this size is covering not just the heat sink but is also blowing on the heat block as well. You really dont want this as it cools your heat block, which is a bad thing, making it difficult to trust your temperature settings, along with forcing your printer to compensate unnecessarily for it.<br /><br /><br />It isn't difficult to see that the overflow of air from this will also be hitting the part being printed as well.<br /><br />This is not a good thing and a bad design choice as it takes away any control from you, and makes adjusting settings very difficult.<br /><br />In the following pictures you can see a Prusa mks 2.5 extruder housing with the components they use, and the layout they chose as well.<br /><br />The smaller Heat sink fan (On the left) is only blowing onto the Heat sink and the overflow isn't providing the same amount of interference to the part as the Creality. (Some overflow would be expected though)<br /><br />The much larger part cooling fan with its directed duct on the front (In this case a modified duct to surround the part a lot more)<br /><br /></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMpqxMHmzEhEcpO9jXyyV8Y15ZbfWE-YZXpl1QfW8vlHAamGdaxZ4EQwr_lQkapKNczzk9SmINmBHH3o-d8ske8SfeSYXTE_udCx4pnBhR8fLtuWZhqhcY6UqCzV-cqz99s684aT_fcxo/s1600/20190530_140640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMpqxMHmzEhEcpO9jXyyV8Y15ZbfWE-YZXpl1QfW8vlHAamGdaxZ4EQwr_lQkapKNczzk9SmINmBHH3o-d8ske8SfeSYXTE_udCx4pnBhR8fLtuWZhqhcY6UqCzV-cqz99s684aT_fcxo/s640/20190530_140640.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /><br />I'm not sure if you can make it out in the next photo of the Prusa clone, but the heat block itself isn't really receiving any direct air from either fan.<br /></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtDwDzKFHjEmdSUwY1D4HaHlKdxMheAxULAcQZBA8XbCUxoJuOR_xQ-tENncGaFq-sY_eZ_EmHNnSDezmcefIwsZTgybgw3vBArctd6i1FaFLTL4x9b8LR7XpT6JX0bfRhNP3nXszgcc/s1600/20190530_140717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtDwDzKFHjEmdSUwY1D4HaHlKdxMheAxULAcQZBA8XbCUxoJuOR_xQ-tENncGaFq-sY_eZ_EmHNnSDezmcefIwsZTgybgw3vBArctd6i1FaFLTL4x9b8LR7XpT6JX0bfRhNP3nXszgcc/s400/20190530_140717.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The problem with the Creality setup</span></span></b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">....</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Is that the excess air being blown over your part, makes it difficult to control each aspect of the printing process. If you can control all aspects of the process then you have options where you can adjust and fine tune your print process.<br /><br />In the following example I used my experience of my old i3 in setting up some (Very old, and had to dry is for 2.5 hours at 65) petg, to print a new duct for my CR-10 in order to try and take back some control of this process.<br /><br />As you saw in the previous pictures, I modified my old Prusa i3 clone thing, with their extruder setup and found that with this, I could cool petg a little on about 20% to help with stringing and it worked really well after testing some settings.<br /><br />Unfortunately the CR-10 forced me to turn off the part cooling fan altogether, and despite doing this, the Heat Sink cooling fan, was blowing all over my print causing it to lift away from the bed causing it to warp up. <br /><br />Controlling stringing would have been a bloody nightmare on a lot of other more complex and larger prints as well. So we need to find a solution to this.<br /><br /></span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrbin2hg3Ol-iRqkk5dH6LU7wCf_Pwo0T2Ges01bs5KqYrx-Xk8LE_x1WJyqsNQ3DN_2tdccJPbCIxYX5B1dlQavV4_yHgGd2hTon2pAObN0H2CDJSMGgSpWj1KuhUiygCF6UF1jUS63A/s1600/20190530_140800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrbin2hg3Ol-iRqkk5dH6LU7wCf_Pwo0T2Ges01bs5KqYrx-Xk8LE_x1WJyqsNQ3DN_2tdccJPbCIxYX5B1dlQavV4_yHgGd2hTon2pAObN0H2CDJSMGgSpWj1KuhUiygCF6UF1jUS63A/s400/20190530_140800.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><span style="font-size: large;">This tiny little part was always going to be the small kid, picked on by the school bully, and sure enough, even with the part cooling fan turned off, the part warped. <br /><br />The section that did warp was a victim of its own design and too many years of experience in the back on my mind, niggling at me telling me it probably would. <br /><br /><b>Solutions</b><br />Apart from turning off your part cooling fan the thing you can do to help with this, is to re-orient the part that is most likely to warp, to be facing away from the front of the fan and bed (Not always possible though). <br /><br />So rotate to avoid the aggravate :-)<br /><br /><br /></span></span></span></span><br />
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<img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKCNlp1Pol38592TKSLzzoNi8sKbloAST46ByMIJUrm8G0axtbyMzw7lgY9lhKrwr5LbT3CS6W19uNTe22zmfoKGSQcybHQV1GO__BclqWhzOEVr2_5bBy85DrNIMe_SBOF09mOrX3zeU/s400/20190530_140900.jpg" width="400" /></div>
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<img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJJOYyDU8LoW2Se96xB0VVovv951jKe17LcPedPog3dLve0OaTS445IDHsBjxAbbwUJ4Md9Rnh88Ba2MtgDCuf23N5X3MUhllMwccvtnJEYFOtRDJI3Lu2pKn_qiaGJ701YvjUJhCtX80/s400/20190530_140924.jpg" width="400" /></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br />This warping isn't excessive either, and could also be fixed with a heat gun and a flat surface. The point of all this though, is that I dont have the control I had before, and don't like this one little bit.<br /><br /><br />Once the new part cooling fan duct is attached to the printer (Printed in White Petg here) you can see where it lifts from the side. In this case and only good thing about this, it is better than it pointing down into the path of the printed part threatening to knock the print off the bed the moment you walk away.<br /><br /><br /></span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtOIN6f9gmBDjNDjrrczdtMq2xTiOM8uZhsWQqNDn-wWM4bd3T7jDcZPOmWsMMKwLFeAI13sWa7kKYMqcgvUpI7ZK8kGTeZ9aYmALV7dWdt3Bh99-krtC4GihRWxOyh2EHn2zIc2_itrY/s1600/20190530_142407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtOIN6f9gmBDjNDjrrczdtMq2xTiOM8uZhsWQqNDn-wWM4bd3T7jDcZPOmWsMMKwLFeAI13sWa7kKYMqcgvUpI7ZK8kGTeZ9aYmALV7dWdt3Bh99-krtC4GihRWxOyh2EHn2zIc2_itrY/s400/20190530_142407.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;"><br />The question is "What do I do, to fix this?"</span></b><br /><br /><span style="font-size: large;">1. Use a smaller fan similar to the Prusa and to model a modified mount that fits the existing steel housing for it.<br /><br />2. </span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">Block
off some of the airflow along the bottom of the fan so it doesn't blow
onto the heat block ie some kapton tape, placed across the bottom 1/3 of
the fan. ???</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">3. Block off the two fans with partitions so each one is only blowing where we need it. <br /><br /></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">3. </span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">Redesign
a brand new metal shroud to accommodate the smaller Heat Sink fan and redesign
the old part cooling fan with a better duct and fan. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br /><br />4. Nothing, leave it alone.<br /><br />My procrastination skills are "5th Dan black belt" so don't hold your breath waiting for me to solve this in a short amount of time, but I would like to take some control back over the decisions I make about setting up a print rather than being dictated to by this crappy design. <br /><br />I'm not </span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">really </span></span></span></span>asking for suggestions, look upon this as talking to myself and putting the redesign idea out there for others to take up this challenge. I will come up with a decision and design sooner or later. <br /><br />Will test the new duct later. Here is the link to the Thingiverse file I chose.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3255518">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3255518</a></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-32494075986895396172019-05-12T16:58:00.001-07:002019-05-14T03:21:05.092-07:00Motion Activated Light Strip<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">While wandering around Aldi the other day, I spotted some $12.00 led motion activated light strips and decided they might come in handy.<br /><br /><br />Download the files here along with a 20x20 end cap <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/yo2dvalb0i9ncl8/2020%20end%20cap.zip?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/yo2dvalb0i9ncl8/2020%20end%20cap.zip?dl=0</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I added another light tray for 10mm strips so it is about 30mm wide internally.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The original one suits 8mm wide strips.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I decided to place them somewhere on the crossbar on my CR-10 and took the obligatory measurements and committed a design to paper. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I made a simple rectangular box to house the 8mm x 330mm pieces I cut down from the single 1m length of lights. I printed diagonally as it was decided to give the housing a final length of 360mm as it was a good size to fit on the bed and house the lights.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">They fit comfortably, but I needed to figure out how to best route the wires.<br /><br />A friend of mine Adz, inspired me through a close friend of his, Spiro, so I just ran it down and around the frame ;-D<br /><br />I soldered the cut down strips together and am here to warn you about getting the domed clear covering hot, as it gets sticky AF and messy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">It will be mounted to the front of the cross bar so I trimmed down the silver trim on the printer to make room for the strip.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I modeled some T-Nuts about 12mm long to slide into the cross-bar to which the strip would be glued later.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I forgot to add some z-hop and ended up printing these 3 times as they kept getting knocked over lol</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The T-Nuts slid into position. They were tight and hard to slide in, where the upright was attached to the cross-bar, but lose along the length of the bar ?? I think the screws joining the Aluminium together might be tight enough to be slightly squishing the bar.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">To make this easy I used some spring clamps to hold a piece of thin MDF along the bottom of the bar to help with lining everything up. The idea was to place a drop of CA glue on each T-Nut and then sit the bar on that and just slide back and stick to the glue.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Tada !!!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Once the glue had set up I slid the bar out and hit it with some activator just to be sure :-)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The battery pack comes with some double sided tape so I mounted it on the bottom of the cross-bar and set it to come on automatically.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The silver warning tag really reflects the light which itself could be stronger but a battery power strip of lcds was never going to be really powerful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Over all I'm quite happy with it and it comes on when I'm near or when the bed and print head are moving and turns itself off when it isn't.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-25668589308619759782019-03-28T19:37:00.003-07:002019-03-28T22:25:08.661-07:00Wam Bam PEX 3d printing surface (P2)I moved onto abs filament to see how well that stuck to the pex material. I'm going to perpetuate that old often used but inaccurate saying "Here be Dragons" <a href="https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/here-be-dragons">https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/here-be-dragons</a><br />
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I dried some black abs I had here for 3 hours at 50c in my food dehydrator then re-printed the same warp inducing file I used in part one. <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:990484">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:990484</a> At first I tried with nothing to help with adhesion and that turned out to be a failure. I was laughing too hard to remember to take pictures. It only got about 10 layers in when I discovered a spaghetti monster forming.<br />
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In preparation for this last night I made up some thin abs juice with some of the filament and some acetone so I schmeered it on the PEX just as I have in the past on pei and restarted the print. This time we lasted about 41% into the print before it started to lift on one end and then at around 60% it did the same at the other end.<br />
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I was very slap-happy with how I used the Juice and it wasn't an even coating at all, but despite this I never expected it to work all that well anyway and said as much in part 1.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ9w8Ys4ViIuGJkNJWC3AgwOWD4EHbwO6uSonysYNv_E6u1yfqIps97W4vDLHD2ktrFyfuKYrEEdKNT1QpiWT1VkE8v9HNm6uJGGyYqb56KsKeCWyOfDECGLcAZbTLCoEpA1OIggS4UI0/s1600/20190329_112225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ9w8Ys4ViIuGJkNJWC3AgwOWD4EHbwO6uSonysYNv_E6u1yfqIps97W4vDLHD2ktrFyfuKYrEEdKNT1QpiWT1VkE8v9HNm6uJGGyYqb56KsKeCWyOfDECGLcAZbTLCoEpA1OIggS4UI0/s400/20190329_112225.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgWYEo_8PLMfTTa-sQESck7Hr9_DMghnLdDE-ga6iuZdsQWPoNqikSmSIXFbBVPqkPC9X1ynmLc2v192bFWPUM3tCPdwJqNue4wosOc045F7ZjrTeRnGpeb8wMzeGUReLX0-2n4uOMLMc/s1600/20190329_112254.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgWYEo_8PLMfTTa-sQESck7Hr9_DMghnLdDE-ga6iuZdsQWPoNqikSmSIXFbBVPqkPC9X1ynmLc2v192bFWPUM3tCPdwJqNue4wosOc045F7ZjrTeRnGpeb8wMzeGUReLX0-2n4uOMLMc/s400/20190329_112254.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here we are nicely stuck down on the abs juice and lasting longer than without the slurry.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilSNk8ejUPRrdZdGaa4n4S7eAKKMfrjlH1IabzQRd0GEM9CXCYNh0tjDPIx3tGOP9BCTu5YXI2X9PU0Cd6X5glV1kPrcSMALClrz_B7XqtoXyWEhKUjEwZeikyXXFVApf4qi_MA61ygCU/s1600/20190329_115454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilSNk8ejUPRrdZdGaa4n4S7eAKKMfrjlH1IabzQRd0GEM9CXCYNh0tjDPIx3tGOP9BCTu5YXI2X9PU0Cd6X5glV1kPrcSMALClrz_B7XqtoXyWEhKUjEwZeikyXXFVApf4qi_MA61ygCU/s400/20190329_115454.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The part is still stuck at 41% of the print and with temps I felt I could use, or reach with my newish CR-10.<br />
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I did have it set to 100 but because it was taking so long to get to temp I went back and set it to 80 degrees and bumped it up as it printed to 90. I was about to raise it again but it was warping by then so decided not to. Would that have made any difference? Maybe? I doubted it though, with no enclosure which may not have even helped as this stl was designed to warp with these kinds of filaments. A reminder that pla didn't even think of lifting.<br />
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So conclusions.................and this wasn't very scientific but under my usual work flow of being too lazy to level every time or wait until everything had cooled down prior to evenly spreading some abs juice down on the surface etc<br />
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PLA = Brilliant<br />
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PETG = I think might be ok but it will depend heavily on the part you're trying to print and the addition of some kind of adhesion promoter like abs juice would definitely help. It did stick really well to the surface but still lifted in places. I tried to remove it while the bed was still hot and it resisted my attempt strongly.<br />
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ABS = Life too short to be trying abs on this surface, especially on a printer never really designed to handle it. The bed temps really need to be around 100-110 and the printer inside a heated chamber. Like petg though some parts might work but it will depend on their shape. If you can get it to stick then dont let a print designed to warp stop you from trying as the print finish was bloody beautiful. Find another way to get it to stick down you wont regret it.<br />
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Final print and while it cracked and lifted it was still difficult to remove from the bed saying that if I had of been more thorough with the abs juice and coated more evenly, the lifting might well have been so much less or not at all.<br />
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The cracks however indicate that my print temp was too low and my whole print room way too cold to print abs. So an enclosure and hotter print and bed temps for this roll of unmarked abs are needed.<br />
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On the right hand side you can see where there wasn't enough abs juice to help hold things down.<br />
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The print quality or surface finish is fantastic and if this stuff didn't come with so many other issues I'd happily print with it all the time.................for one, it is a lot cheaper than most other types of filament.<br />
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I'll clean this abs juice off after the print finishes just to see if it is affected in any way by acetone etc. I doubt it will be, as it was touted as having better heat resistance than pei etc so I doubt hydrocarbons would affect it either, pei isn't affected by acetone or thinner etc.<br />
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All clean!!</div>
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I also lightly sanded the surface with some fine sand paper to rough the surface to assist with petg my favourite filament and one I'm returning back to soon. I'll do some more tests to see how that goes next, pla first to make sure everything is still good.<br />
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Please realise your results may vary to mine, my abs juice could have been too thin or a hundred other things ;-)<br />
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Quick pla test print after I lightly sanded the surface. Going to need some dynamite to remove this now lol .................or wait until it cools I guess, or pry it off with a tool of some sort. :-)<br />
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<br />Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-67297018269196937422019-03-28T02:30:00.002-07:002019-03-28T19:06:06.952-07:00Wam Bam PEX 3d printing surface (P1)I recently bought a Creality CR-10 that comes with a sheet of glass as a print surface. On my old printers I have pei sheets adhered to the print surfaces. These are all 1mm thick rather than the 0.3mm that companies like Prusa Research use on their Mk3 printers.<br />
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PEI is commonly used by Lulzbot and Prusa etc as it is a great material suited to high temperatures and its ability to hold a range of filament types.<br />
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So naturally I searched around the usual places for something to fit my 310mm x 310mm bed size and I found a reasonably priced Anycubic Ultrabase glass bed, so I ordered that. I was reticent though as my previous experience with this surface was hit and miss at best. After making sure my nozzle was very close to the surface I found with some practice I had reasonable success with it. You had to still be vigilant with it and keep an eye on it, unlike PEI, but it was ok.<br />
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I kept searching for some pei at 1mm thickness and 310 squared at a good price with some of the 3m adhesive but was coming up short in all areas. There were some thin sheets and some con atists from china selling buildtack in different colours and calling it pei but buildtack doesn't last under my heavy treatment and you couldn't give it to me for free to use.<br />
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I stumbled back onto Wam Bam flexible plate system that uses PEX rather than PEI. Not something I was too familiar with but had seen it before, after reading that is had some qualities above that of pei, and checking the bank account I decided to just get the PEX with 3m adhesive by itself as I couldn't afford the entire eco system. Not that is was overly expensive, my budget just didn't stretch that far having backed a kickstarter for another pei system and saving my money for that instead. <br />
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(nb Kickstarter just informed me that it didn't make the funding target)<br />
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<a href="https://whambam3d.com/collections/310mm/products/pex-build-surface-310-x-310">https://whambam3d.com/collections/310mm/products/pex-build-surface-310-x-310</a> <br />
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"Size 310mm x 310mm / 12.2” x 12.2”<br />
<span style="font-weight: 400;">We have developed the Wham Bam PEX
Build Surface from a specially formulated polymer with a higher melt
point than even PEI to attract most any filament without damaging the
sheet. Prints easily pop off once cooled and flexed. Pre-backed with 3M
adhesive so it takes seconds to install!"<br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-weight: 400;"></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"></span><span style="font-weight: 400;"><br />The sheet arrive quickly and I stuck it to my sheet of glass that came with the CR-10. I also considered sticking it to the back side of the Ultrabase as well and it is still a viable alternative.<br /><br />It was easy enough to stick down, although being clear, I forgot to remove the thin, also clear protective sheet covering it. Funnily enough it worked really well and the print stuck to it quite well. :-)<br /><br />I finally cottoned on to what I'd done, removed the film, and started another print.<br /><br />For pla this stuff is fantastic, prints stick really well, dont warp and just pop off when cooled down. I rarely wait for things to cool and still force it off before it is cool enough though. :-)<br /></span><br />
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These pics are all of a warp test designed for pei sticking like a champ. This test print will warp if you just look at it incorrectly so I was happy to see it not lifting with some pla. <a href="https://3dfillies.com/plasteel-filament-175mm-1kg">https://3dfillies.com/plasteel-filament-175mm-1kg</a><br />
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Another test of a narrow coin holder that stuck well.<br />
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I moved on to some old PETG I had lying around to see how well it would stick to the PEX. It did warp up as expected but it was no where as bad as I expected.<br />
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I still haven't printed abs or asa on it as I still need to dry whatever I have here before trying them. To be honest I'm not expecting it to "not warp" off the surface but the good thing about pei and pex is that you can use an abs slurry on these materials and not harm them in any way and clean up is a breeze.<br />
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I also dont have a enclosure for this printer and will try to do these test before the Canberra Winter sets in. I'll crank the bed up as high as it will go and hope for the best. I'll repeat the tests with using a slurry of abs juice after that and will report back the results. For all I know abs might stick like a champ but I'll be using the same test print designed to warp so wont be holding my breath. :-)<br />
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This is not a sponsored or paid review in any way shape or form, but if you like to print pla, and even be really hap-hazard on how much effort you put into bed leveling this stuff just works like a dream, and out performs Ultrabase every time. Until the petg and using this warp test I didn't have any pla print come lose or even look like lifting.<br />
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<br />Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-86865640246543620792018-12-15T18:20:00.002-08:002018-12-15T18:29:32.473-08:00Stick Blender Splat Guard<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I bought a cheap $19.99 Stick Blender (Big W) to primarily make my own home made healthier mayonnaise using free range eggs and either Olive Oil or Avocado Oil.</div>
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This guard was in response to my first use of this particular brand. I'd used one before but it didn't cover me, my t-shirt and kitchen surrounds in oil and egg yolk resulting in a 20 minute clean up.<br />
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Here's a link to the recipe I found, that claimed and delivered, a thick creamy mayo.<br />
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<a href="https://nourishedkitchen.com/avocado-oil-mayonnaise/">https://nourishedkitchen.com/avocado-oil-mayonnaise/</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSqQCESDHsUnhDb4_lqxseak7m2LiDy-xk5r77AcX0Nr4FHbtc_vpHHIrEc7fKfT4kdVpEBvzbzkAr9F9cWj0OlqsxtA8wtsKBdLWp-J7Vg2fC7rrUWrQe7gabhVsFLTHx_ReNQ8Tx62Q/s1600/20181215_144501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSqQCESDHsUnhDb4_lqxseak7m2LiDy-xk5r77AcX0Nr4FHbtc_vpHHIrEc7fKfT4kdVpEBvzbzkAr9F9cWj0OlqsxtA8wtsKBdLWp-J7Vg2fC7rrUWrQe7gabhVsFLTHx_ReNQ8Tx62Q/s640/20181215_144501.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehwhjeOPmGE1mSHwFM_-9EL-yVeg8gKERjZz_-0Z_FCVE-_JluowNvWDxs3D1xKBw1MS0fmZ-oCNhqJ6y9bgLnjrpp_q6x8weWCzYqor1HQP7IWSg8kQ_B4LAsDC8CBKGA9q0iNSNPuA/s1600/20181215_144546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhehwhjeOPmGE1mSHwFM_-9EL-yVeg8gKERjZz_-0Z_FCVE-_JluowNvWDxs3D1xKBw1MS0fmZ-oCNhqJ6y9bgLnjrpp_q6x8weWCzYqor1HQP7IWSg8kQ_B4LAsDC8CBKGA9q0iNSNPuA/s640/20181215_144546.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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I got out my design pad and measured everything, then designed something that would sit flat on my printer bed for printing and not need any supports. Mainly because I was going to print in <a href="https://3dfillies.com/plaflex-filament-175mm-1kg">3DFillies PLAflex</a> so I could design in a slit in the lid, so I could fit and bend it around the stem of the blender.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI4rpC15rhonW_EKD12ieOZhAyvzL7G8o6Iwv9ftE7pfrZc_dOwNghXuMLY9165bD6ZkySe-nhc85mdantBPDl8jzHeuK_xvHhucsr_d6JpcfdEoTgSE2kAngrmFOLl65JmUebe_NxVoY/s1600/20181215_144627.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI4rpC15rhonW_EKD12ieOZhAyvzL7G8o6Iwv9ftE7pfrZc_dOwNghXuMLY9165bD6ZkySe-nhc85mdantBPDl8jzHeuK_xvHhucsr_d6JpcfdEoTgSE2kAngrmFOLl65JmUebe_NxVoY/s400/20181215_144627.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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While I have any number of print bases like Ultrabase etc I'm not that keen to swap print surfaces as that entails a Z-Stop adjustment and I really didn't feel like doing that. :-)</div>
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My regular bed is some <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borosilicate_glass">Borosilicate glass </a>with some <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/PEI_build_surface">pei</a> glued to it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAi4vB73Qtik8xXfsrNWsBTtwIT9Ku-7dZOyXqsJN82FNexv3lNOKDjp6VXkGstdnQmGYjIrhk9GimaAAfaO-y0PRJbXjUEB1eF3xz-suZtKQNh4I_3Up4P415KKdi7dUFHjLYbJ2fu_4/s1600/20181215_155343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAi4vB73Qtik8xXfsrNWsBTtwIT9Ku-7dZOyXqsJN82FNexv3lNOKDjp6VXkGstdnQmGYjIrhk9GimaAAfaO-y0PRJbXjUEB1eF3xz-suZtKQNh4I_3Up4P415KKdi7dUFHjLYbJ2fu_4/s400/20181215_155343.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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The print turned out quite nicely...................after the 3rd attempt lol<br />
It seems my math skills and ability to measure things and do it to a shape on half the of profile design to then lathe around 360 degrees was clearly lacking :-)<br />
If you add 3 mm on one side the total width ends up 6 mm larger and while I understood this before I started I still got it wrong twice.<br />
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The container has a pouring spout that I needed to allow for and a lip around the top I took advantage of to make the lid clip onto.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2qzJ8Ko1pLt2KaSdzjiv_zzUByhyBtOqWxaoUas1zFJQnWNhb_YVLphefFtOZ4F7ZomApAtMU8gYzrafCiMSbmklPuFmMJtDAjgvX8qdOvmybNN7NKg1U7yHh4dy9kA8Gm5eK6d74Bk/s1600/20181216_093904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja2qzJ8Ko1pLt2KaSdzjiv_zzUByhyBtOqWxaoUas1zFJQnWNhb_YVLphefFtOZ4F7ZomApAtMU8gYzrafCiMSbmklPuFmMJtDAjgvX8qdOvmybNN7NKg1U7yHh4dy9kA8Gm5eK6d74Bk/s400/20181216_093904.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Pei and flex material get on so well you actually have to put an intermediate layer of something like glue-stick so you can remove your print after it has finished printing.<br />
While I did this getting the print off was difficult and left a mess on the print itself which I washed off with warm water. Due to my impatience with everything, the first layer didn't turn out as nicely as I wanted. It was acceptable to me as this is for my own use and if you know me you'll know I don't fuss so much over visual details and am more interested in nice practical design.<br />
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That's not to say it isn't a part of my goal but it also isn't the end all, or be all, of 3d printing as far as I'm concerned.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZpEF94NclgNtDX85kHoFEAHaOBpn52pjaR4IfXuKxiwPL_nHZ2ZD3GHAqM5nIVs0s4By0kjXgPUdU51LDMDld36XDGCod4jP4gMuy-yZ42YOwQyaWMFbl8n-Pwv2SSPYUON1EjaEIezY/s1600/20181216_093941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZpEF94NclgNtDX85kHoFEAHaOBpn52pjaR4IfXuKxiwPL_nHZ2ZD3GHAqM5nIVs0s4By0kjXgPUdU51LDMDld36XDGCod4jP4gMuy-yZ42YOwQyaWMFbl8n-Pwv2SSPYUON1EjaEIezY/s400/20181216_093941.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The lip snaps on with a satisfying click and is close enough to the lip to fit well and still allow spill free pouring. <br /><br />Note:- You couldn't pour the mayo I made, this stuff could fill cracks in plaster, it was so thick ;-D</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG_4YhN2-JXVkums0UfOEPA7LoTzvr85mq5oASeQ5PFC5y3C7l6hKakwfHRDJyQoOFNlHMdCZiJBi1hcbI5jqibyy-ZoLL1aCwKV7Ls_VdahkKatFqhIk06pXEVuWIFZ4A-90EvkTBxIc/s1600/20181216_094027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG_4YhN2-JXVkums0UfOEPA7LoTzvr85mq5oASeQ5PFC5y3C7l6hKakwfHRDJyQoOFNlHMdCZiJBi1hcbI5jqibyy-ZoLL1aCwKV7Ls_VdahkKatFqhIk06pXEVuWIFZ4A-90EvkTBxIc/s400/20181216_094027.jpg" width="225" /></a><br />
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You can see the split where you can bend it to fit onto the shaft of the blender.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi31Bi1T4gECvVdaEAPiQ6lPd7JnYFbJECyRdSpH_WHSlOewKzHkhyphenhyphenwzBTbb667oOFNS0PCT75c1ZKkewkv9nRYYkXfQiC2hNDc3IMUo8OF_HpzjSRsn34Hp735A8iW95rtriR2DQ0yqRk/s1600/20181216_094217.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi31Bi1T4gECvVdaEAPiQ6lPd7JnYFbJECyRdSpH_WHSlOewKzHkhyphenhyphenwzBTbb667oOFNS0PCT75c1ZKkewkv9nRYYkXfQiC2hNDc3IMUo8OF_HpzjSRsn34Hp735A8iW95rtriR2DQ0yqRk/s320/20181216_094217.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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It has yet to be used in a real life mayo making frenzy but I'm pretty confident that all the cleaning and the load of washing machine clothes and Tea towels has been a lesson that not all stick blenders are the same or even act the same. The other one I once used, required you to lift the blender way too high to make such a mess but this one doesn't really need the same kind of lift to do the same job lol<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6cNfP1udNxfsFqAxRcBy6DVJx2ePknIysvkXs6qdaXxissjV3Wc20h8Bkhr2zwJy7QWQqmC2fevEMVmnY1bIDgs2LMXVIgI6cg6jS2ugcQvsrFaDzFqAj7QO1V5Dm5j_yc1ft-vFibpw/s1600/20181216_094143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6cNfP1udNxfsFqAxRcBy6DVJx2ePknIysvkXs6qdaXxissjV3Wc20h8Bkhr2zwJy7QWQqmC2fevEMVmnY1bIDgs2LMXVIgI6cg6jS2ugcQvsrFaDzFqAj7QO1V5Dm5j_yc1ft-vFibpw/s320/20181216_094143.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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For something that only cost $20.00 aud and will only get used occasionally I'm pretty happy with everything now!<br />
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Link to the stl <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/wzywthacoerf1kn/Blender_Lid%20v3.stl?dl=0">here</a></div>
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Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-87443583795222684742018-11-29T16:28:00.001-08:002018-12-01T21:58:36.767-08:003d printed and airbrushed Raspberry Pi Case - Part 1<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Based on the Raspberry Pi 1 case design in the link below, I redesigned a Raspberry Pi 3 case as it seems the Series 1 case's link to MyMiniFactory no longer works. It also is out of date and doesn't fit the new Pi's.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2015/7/30/design-of-the-week-raspberry-pie-case?rq=raspberry%20pi">https://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2015/7/30/design-of-the-week-raspberry-pie-case?rq=raspberry%20pi</a><br /><br />Designed and modeled in 3ds Max.<br />Sliced in Simplify3d v4.0.1<br />Printed in 3d Fillies pla+ Green <a href="https://3dfillies.com/plaplus-filament-175mm-1kg/">https://3dfillies.com/plaplus-filament-175mm-1kg/</a><br /><br /><br />The mesh needed to be manifold so the long process of weaving the crust as one solid water tight mesh began.<br />I avoided trying to boolean the sections together for just about every reason you could reasonably think of.<br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The hump or raised centre section was added using soft selection and a FFD modifier</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The weave and the outer edge were bought together and Booleaned into one mesh</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">and while it isn't shown here, because at the time I was too deep into my process, it was then sculpted into the shape I wanted.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I just used simple box modelling techniques for most of this and added turbo or mesh smooth modifiers to get the rounded soft pastry look :-)<br /><br />Called box modelling because it all starts with a box........no less.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A bottom was made for the top in Fusion 360 and imported back into Max to be mated with the top.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My logo was added on the bottom to satisfy my ego :-) and to help prevent someone passing it off as their own work. Something that the long long hours put into all of this, wont let me tolerate :-)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here you can better see the sculpting and smoothing to remove the boxiness of it all</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEU1hdNvvpb9G965aT2sf7ptsRM8Yrm7T7z7XL57LF_gD9gkOOJC-LZjBKuetO24sSHaXDyUST0NLrPCMCEsNHrFl_CP2peCWumLebs3gY8-AKN6cgHGOhElQg9wINvKTtM4SxNKoZrV4/s1600/new_1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="486" data-original-width="671" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEU1hdNvvpb9G965aT2sf7ptsRM8Yrm7T7z7XL57LF_gD9gkOOJC-LZjBKuetO24sSHaXDyUST0NLrPCMCEsNHrFl_CP2peCWumLebs3gY8-AKN6cgHGOhElQg9wINvKTtM4SxNKoZrV4/s400/new_1.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXg9WQtMkhsI5oU0l-HJPEwKaicIMgqomr8wP-wf0Rki4p3LRo400RoMDFJ7O-LsLRbu9-2lYik4nW-fSR1Lr19GyltDuCCxLGZHQD-ioMkXj9_AFq1yCJ1rK_CC2dJFIqu6G2VJbfpf8/s1600/pi_3_c.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1366" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXg9WQtMkhsI5oU0l-HJPEwKaicIMgqomr8wP-wf0Rki4p3LRo400RoMDFJ7O-LsLRbu9-2lYik4nW-fSR1Lr19GyltDuCCxLGZHQD-ioMkXj9_AFq1yCJ1rK_CC2dJFIqu6G2VJbfpf8/s400/pi_3_c.png" width="400" /></a><br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Continued in part 2<a href="https://lukethier.blogspot.com/2018/11/3d-printed-and-painted-raspberry-pi-case.html"><br /><br />https://lukethier.blogspot.com/2018/11/3d-printed-and-painted-raspberry-pi-case.html</a></b></span></div>
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</span>Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-36204532799278144142018-11-29T04:08:00.001-08:002018-12-21T14:00:04.662-08:003d printed and airbrushed Raspberry Pi Case - Part 2<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I used 3ds Max for most of the modeling and design.<br /><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Forgot some settings and had a hard time removing supports lol<br />Fits like a dream :-) now...........!<br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Because I was painting these (There were 6 of them to allow for mistakes) I printed them in 3d Filles pla+ Green <a href="https://3dfillies.com/plaplus-filament-175mm-1kg/">https://3dfillies.com/plaplus-filament-175mm-1kg/</a> as any colour would do. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">You could easily have used white or another light colour that would match the top coat but I have years of experience painting things and knew I could cover the green.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A combination of Beige and grey Primer Filler were used to undercoat and fill the layer lines. I found the beige was a little better for this. I started with the grey then switched to the beige.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2 full cans ended up being needed to get the layers covered, with plenty of sanding in between.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The final colour was a beige automotive acrylic lacquer that was close enough to what I was after for my base colour. 3 cans of paint so far. Two undercoats and one top coat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I rendered the top of the design in 3ds Max and scaled it to the correct size.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I then glued the paper with some spray adhesive to some card stock.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then I drew around the inside of the raised sections that would get the darker colours<br />and cut them out with a stencil knife with a No 11 blade in it.<br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I printed the size of the width of the "pie" on the A4 paper, because I kept forgetting it :-) 102.3 mm</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I then scored the card and folded the wings down to form a tent above the case so as not to touch the cases themselves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I then airbrushed a combination airbrush water based acrylic paint and some ordinary acrylic artist paints I already had here. This allowed me to mix up any colour that I needed to.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There were about 5 or 6 colours used in the end to get the look I was after. The first 3 colours were all freehand painted without the mask and quite randomly applied.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The next 2 colours I used the mask to prevent paint from reaching the places I didn't want any of the darker colour to hit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So working from lightest to darkest with creams and yellows and umbers and browns I built up the pastry to look nicely cooked and even a little over cooked.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The last and darkest colour was hand painted freehand with my airbrush.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When everything had dried, it was going to need a clear coat. This was always something that was going to happen as the water based paint over the lacquer was never going to adhere all that well and was going to wipe off during handling. Not easily, but over time if left un-coated.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So I used some picture varnish designed to go over both types of paint to protect artwork. Luckily I had this from other art projects.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There are some paints designed to do this and used a lot in the airbrush industry, but were way too expensive and I only needed a small amount so settled on this instead.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here they are with a raspberry Pi fitted inside one of them. I had originally increased the scale of these by another 1% to make sure the RPi3 would fit comfortably. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The test fit prior to painting was fantastic so I plowed on ahead "Mr Plow!"</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After they were painted they were much more difficult to fit in the cases. I suspect the 3d prints were still off-gassing and shrinking while they were waiting for paint and also were contracted even more by all the coats of heavy paints that followed.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The RPi3 still fit, but need to be patiently fitted into the case.</span></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i9.ytimg.com/vi/jM6acMSyHhk/default.jpg?sqp=CKz9geAF&rs=AOn4CLASojptfRlbcYVw525rG8fchJpVlA" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/jM6acMSyHhk?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I have kept one of these for myself, one went to a friend who let me borrow his compressor after mine decided not to work<br /><br />All the others are destined as Christmas presents for close friends that have supported me.over the years.</span></div>
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Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-48364957976372609542018-08-06T01:06:00.002-07:002018-08-12T18:03:10.304-07:00NASA Logo for 3d Printing <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The picture below of the logo as stls joined in 3ds Max and coloured to show what it will look like after printing.<br />
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I traced the logo in Inkscape and took it into fusion and made 3 layers or colours for the stls.<br />
The white base layer takes the shape of both the blue and red to both support and provide the white in the background.<br />
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The red swoosh may be a tight fit but the Blue will print as a whole and will remove in sections so print everything and lay it out prior to assembly and gluing.<br />
<b><br />EDIT:- </b>This is pretty big and will need to be scaled down to fit a lot of 3d printers. I tried it at 30% in X and Y but kept the Z height at 100 as it is also very thin. I will change it at some point. :-) I still haven't had a successful print from it and suggest you try and print it doing filament swaps for maximum chance at not throwing it across a room lol <br />
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So print the white then swap filament to blue and print that. The red can still be done separately and fitted in after. You will need some knowledge or do some research about doing a filament swap. My failures were due to my old printer playing up, so I need to finish building the other 2 I have 90% done or to buy a new one as I suffer from chronic laziness lol<br />
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This was just me Richarding around with tracing bitmaps etc so dont be surprised if things aren't as they should be.</div>
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Download the stls here:-</div>
<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/0jcx54gik615kcc/Nasa_STL.zip?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/0jcx54gik615kcc/Nasa_STL.zip?dl=0 <br /></a>A hole drilled in the centre could mean you could fit a clock mechanism.<br />
<br />Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-36462419454183777492018-06-28T17:07:00.000-07:002018-06-28T18:17:20.771-07:004. Turntable Stand - Tripod - CompletedFinally its done and I'm very happy with it ;-D<br />
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Some thoughts on making it:-<br />
1. Print time for the stand tripod about 9 hour + depending on your settings.<br />
2. The leg holder is about 1.5 hours, depending on your settings.<br />
3. Sanding the nuts on the front and back helps getting them to fit (for me) sanding two edges also helped.<br />
4. The other pieces, like both Turntables, are documented in previous blog posts.<br />
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Stl files for this build :-<br />
<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/t9vxr56qkfgxcd9/Turntable_Stand_Leg%20Clamp.zip?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/t9vxr56qkfgxcd9/Turntable_Stand_Leg%20Clamp.zip?dl=0</a><br />
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Link to the blog post about the Turntable builds 1 of 7<br />
<a href="http://lukethier.blogspot.com/2018/05/desinging-and-making-turntable-for.html">http://lukethier.blogspot.com/2018/05/desinging-and-making-turntable-for.html</a><br />
Files for the Turntable themselves:- <br />
<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/z26afzy1mpyvbql/2018_Turntable.zip?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/z26afzy1mpyvbql/2018_Turntable.zip?dl=0</a><br />
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Disassembled for storage.<br />
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Assembled<br />
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;-D Pretty pleased with myself (Pictures of me laying in bed with my arm around it smoking a cigarette are nothing but vicious rumors)<br />
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With the legs withdrawn in halfway so as to make the area needed by the base less<br /><br /><br />
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Next to the inspiration for this build<br />
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The start of some inception</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/_l5pS_pbMrM/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_l5pS_pbMrM?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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<br />Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-27529078044149917892018-06-27T18:33:00.001-07:002018-06-28T04:15:27.358-07:003. Turntable Stand - Tripod<br />
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<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/t9vxr56qkfgxcd9/Turntable_Stand_Leg%20Clamp.zip?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/t9vxr56qkfgxcd9/Turntable_Stand_Leg%20Clamp.zip?dl=0</a><br /><br /><br />
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I've been sharpening the bolts for holding everything in place.<br /><br />
It isn't strictly necessary, but I'm using plain bolts without any handle or mean to easily turn them if you know what I mean. <br />
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There were some M6 bolts that had a wing nut fixed to the head that would have been perfect for these but alas my local hardware store only stocked the 50mm long ones and I didn't want them protruding out too much so I stuck with 25mm long bolts.<br />
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So if you can get you hands on them or find something similar then even better, you could cut them down to length I guess.<br />-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span><span> <span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody _1n4g"><span><span>Hardware Bom </span><br /><span>5 of M6 x 25mm bolts</span><br /><span>5 of M6 x Nuts</span></span><span><span><br /><span>1 x 2M x 22mm dowel cut to 3 x 400mm, 1 x 800mm</span><br /><span>or an old broom handle cut to suit just make everything shorter if necessary</span><br /><br /><span>You shouldn't need much more than 20/30% infill (My tests used 10%) and they are fine, but knock yourself out.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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Put the nut on the bolt prior to grinding a sharp point onto the bolt. This will keep it steady in the drill chuck, but most of all it will re cut the thread when you remove the nut allowing you get the nut back on afterwards.<br />
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My drill and Aldi Dremel tool that I used for this.<br />
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Tada!!<br />
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I use a diamond cut off wheel for this but the normal discs that come with these tools are fine for this.<br />
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It doesn't need to be really sharp, the idea is to get it to penetrate the timber easier. Making using your hand to tighten it enough, rather than having to crank on it with a wrench of any description.<br />
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The nut took some effort to remove by hand but this was it; just re-cutting the thread all that grinding closed off and the nut now goes on and off by hand without any trouble.<br />
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<br />Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-69709405051723287242018-06-26T16:50:00.000-07:002018-06-27T04:38:35.787-07:002. Turntable Stand - Tripod<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The new stand with all the sizes and adjustments is printing as I write this.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I took some video of it with the old version but with the upright pole cut down to 800mm in height. Each leg is still 400mm long. The pole diameter (to save you going back to look it up) is 22mm.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Excuse the water marks on the carpet, I had my water bottle on the stand and was going to show off but it backfired and it all ended up in tears ;-D</span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyWTGVTQoSgzLtG1gpHlbY3gmblDI9YuofT-0aNSuYCD4hRHOtMs6u7OYvb8onvvXKH7Mv850xJoV0iDrwl4g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">About 150mm of the dowel is within the stand housing.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxEpI0rX9Zj5WRsjlNqZiCEozfuhyphenhyphen5at80hrgfBBLsL7NjYqWDBNchHfe2DcZ2Off3eUnsDuaFNYwC_K4GCnU1N2nUy58aJdLPmH9hiXXLH9kgqCvgQyQ2XMjRT70m8HBh3A-6xtLZYTM/s1600/20180627_092931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxEpI0rX9Zj5WRsjlNqZiCEozfuhyphenhyphen5at80hrgfBBLsL7NjYqWDBNchHfe2DcZ2Off3eUnsDuaFNYwC_K4GCnU1N2nUy58aJdLPmH9hiXXLH9kgqCvgQyQ2XMjRT70m8HBh3A-6xtLZYTM/s640/20180627_092931.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I've made the bottom of the stand flat just so it has a good chance of sticking to the print surface. I did have them level with the print surface and not flat or cut off like this but the print didn't stick so well to the surface and was prone to coming off.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbVPnaxOjH8I7l2zocSj0unxyen17KxNyJQhqh32s6am4xveIPheMchLY_0L63U90TXLrM9CUbZ7b_Y45CjBco3n4e-AD-j5s_7ucFyLm5YmxHMFzZVW6yXcL70-zrvG47NAotndtUFI/s1600/TT_Stand_5.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="829" data-original-width="954" height="347" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbVPnaxOjH8I7l2zocSj0unxyen17KxNyJQhqh32s6am4xveIPheMchLY_0L63U90TXLrM9CUbZ7b_Y45CjBco3n4e-AD-j5s_7ucFyLm5YmxHMFzZVW6yXcL70-zrvG47NAotndtUFI/s400/TT_Stand_5.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody">Ran out of filament and couldn't rescue the print in time. Had a neighbour in need.<br /><br />So I've been making something to hold the legs for storage or transport.<br /><br />Hopefully
it will sit on the main pole and hold the legs against the body. I
think it needs to be taller though, so doing some test prints.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody"><span data-offset-key="4pl1v-0-0"><span data-text="true">You could always print 2 of them I suppose, I had intended for there to be only 1, but 2 would also work. :-)</span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPt6GWmVaOiv2l3RoGfLgRQpQAtynTxzWkKf6SifZOjoUd0u7C2xECp6Kyij4v-0RpstK96sX-xqnyA-Hdhgwo6kUxp9q3OP621AAebY0aVuGisEFh3neTQ0jKb06fHXjkWv1ytBH2k-A/s1600/LegClamp.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="881" data-original-width="914" height="385" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPt6GWmVaOiv2l3RoGfLgRQpQAtynTxzWkKf6SifZOjoUd0u7C2xECp6Kyij4v-0RpstK96sX-xqnyA-Hdhgwo6kUxp9q3OP621AAebY0aVuGisEFh3neTQ0jKb06fHXjkWv1ytBH2k-A/s400/LegClamp.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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Ok I finished the leg holder, but its a little lose now as the first one was too tight. <br /><br />I adjusted it and also made it thicker and I think had I just made it thicker (The walls that is) It wouldn't have shrunk so much and fitted a lot better.<br /><br />
I'm not sure if I should add a nut and bolt like on the legs, to hold it in position. I did model it in but excluded it from the print as I had my doubts about it.<br /><br />I was hoping to make it the same sized bolt as the legs to save buying more stuff, but it might be a little large.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class=" UFICommentActorAndBody"><span data-ft="{"tn":"K"}"><span class="UFICommentBody"></span></span></span></span>Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-21152542631640981302018-06-25T20:46:00.002-07:002018-06-26T16:30:30.780-07:001. Turntable Stand - Tripod<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I thought it only natural that I designed a stand for the Turntable so here is my first (and hopefully only) attempt at it.<br /><br /><br />I have repaired a music stand in the past, about 3 years ago, using the hardware taken from the broken one. After some really fancy design work and some real headaches trying to print it, I realised that 3d printing and beautiful design weren't going to be as compatible or go hand in hand as I had once hoped.<br /><br />So the reason this has the flat top is so I could print it flipped upside down which worked really well.<br /></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The interesting thing about a design that folds up is that it relies on some mechanical stablising and assistance to get it to work. It needs more components as well. <br /><br />So...........I decided to NOT make it collapsible through folding. <br /><br />You will be able to collapse it down into something that takes up less storage space though.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHz0594tfEd6tpi-ICWXScCJ2r1txTdX-8IkerI6zl8mO_hBGBG1U1T6etOqAe9KyKWmH7xu68NwOJ4XHDyLQFf5gTFdEJfADFIKg0_OfCQtvVM4l80I5ABs6p46bJ_oVTfxUG1eYVVo/s1600/TT_Stand_2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="846" data-original-width="846" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHz0594tfEd6tpi-ICWXScCJ2r1txTdX-8IkerI6zl8mO_hBGBG1U1T6etOqAe9KyKWmH7xu68NwOJ4XHDyLQFf5gTFdEJfADFIKg0_OfCQtvVM4l80I5ABs6p46bJ_oVTfxUG1eYVVo/s400/TT_Stand_2.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />These are the Fusion360 screen shots so I hope it is clear about how it will work.<br /><br />The centre pole is the same size that the Turntable takes as are the legs. It uses one piece of dowel 2.4m long x 22mm diameter. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">$15.79 Aud so about 50c in the states and Europe ;-D<br /><br />The M6 I had here already but might cost about $3-$10 including nuts.<br /><br />This size is very common here and many many broom handles both metal and wood are this thickness (I checked with some vernier calipers while I was there in the hardware store)<br /><br /><br />So I intend that the centre post be somewhere around 900mm to 1200mm long probably more like 900 though and the 3 legs to be 400mm long. They will be held by some M6 bolts and nuts. There is provision for some captive nuts in the design. <br /><br /><br /><br />A 9 hour test print is now underway so I'll know if my allowances for the pole's potential inaccuracies in thickness during manufacturing are anywhere near enough, some time this evening.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Ok my first modification :-) I made the wall thickness for the legs a little thinner as I think I might have gotten a little carried away and over built it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now a little thinned down it should even speed up printing. I reduced the infill for my test print to help speed things up, along with increasing the layer height and have knocked down the print time by an hour or so.<br /><br />-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br />Well that took about 12 hours :-) and it works really well..............Woo Hoo. I need to make the nut housings a little bigger so it's easier to fit them.<br /><br />The pole in these pics hasnt been shortened yet and is way too tall. I'll cut it down in the morning. I'll act out painting with a spray can and my trusty old W77 spray gun to see where it is most comfortable and use that to set the height.<br /><br />I'll make the changes and post the free files soon.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span>Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-21420087451309391932018-06-23T17:08:00.002-07:002018-06-23T17:13:23.984-07:007. Turntable finished...............for the momentI glued up the 90 degree turntable this morning and fitted it to the music stand.<br />
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This one doesn't have the screws to help turn it, to show the nubs being used instead. It could be that the screws might be an hindrance for unforeseen reasons so I'm just showing that they are still useful as is.<br />
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Balancing upside down on the music stand so you can see the bottom better.<br /></div>
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The 90.675 degree version with the screws fitted.</div>
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Download both versions and try it for yourself. The fusion360 files are also included so you can modify them to suit yourself.</div>
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<a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/z26afzy1mpyvbql/2018_Turntable.zip?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/z26afzy1mpyvbql/2018_Turntable.zip?dl=0</a></div>
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Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-9402460405733481692018-06-20T17:15:00.000-07:002018-06-23T16:04:18.494-07:006. Turntable 90 degrees angle testWow so happy with the angle on this.<br />
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I'm still printing the rest of these so I can test how it all fits together. I'm sanding each edge before the glue up.</div>
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<br />Getting ready for two quarters to be glued together.<br />
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Clamps to hold everything flat while the glue dries.<br />
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Even though the pieces were at 90 degrees it still meant that after each quarter was glued into a half I needed to sand each long edge flat as they still don't sit completely flat against each other.<br />
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Oh the humanity! lol <br />
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It wasn't that bad. I use Aluminium Oxide sandpaper stuck to a sheet of glass. Mainly because I use it for woodworking and its all I have, apart from the wet and dry for sanding my paint finishes.<br />
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<br />Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-15840931153602527522018-06-19T21:16:00.000-07:002018-12-21T13:54:29.412-08:005. More Turntable updatesI've now made versions of these to allow for shrinkage of the pla<br />
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I added roughly 0.675 Degrees to the 90 degrees to allow for the shrinkage of the pla.<br />
So the angle is 90.675 on one lot and the other is 90.0 degrees exactly for filament that does not seem to shrink.<br />
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I'm in Australia and used some https://cocoonproducts.com.au/product-category/3dfilament/ pla for my first tests and THIS (Grey) SHRANK.<br />
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For my second iteration I used some <a href="https://3dfillies.com/">https://3dfillies.com/</a> PLA+ and this stuff didnt. I also admit to being a real fan boy of this stuff and think it's fantastic. This (Silver) DID NOT SHRINK<br />
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So I hope one of these files helps you. <br />
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The best thing to do is print 1 corner and then put a "Set Square" on it and see if it is 90 degrees. If less than 90 degrees then print the file without a suffix of _90<br />
Which one to print first is going to be up to you, I only just now discovered this little gem and am now having to reprint in <a href="https://3dfillies.com/">3dfillies</a> PLA+.<br />
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I have included the fusion360 files so you can adjust to suit your own situation....................so you're on your own from here. ;-D<br />
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This text above now comes in the zip file as a txt file for your information but I felt I needed to add some more information to this as just having both these files, the 90 degree one and the 90.675 degree one, doesn't necessarily guarantee you'll end up with 4 quarters that line up exactly.<br />
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As it's winter here and keeping my place warm while I print can be a little problematic at times.<br />
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It seems all my filament is subject to shrinkage at different rates depending on the room temperature at the time.<br />
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I'm still experimenting but just be aware you really do need to print one and check for square before committing one way or another.<br />
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The following picture is the print where I discovered that one filament was not shrinking and the 90.675 was now overcompensating for the shrinkage..............................so I sanded it for ages with some course sandpaper stuck to a sheet of glass I recycled from an old set of bathroom scales.<br />
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I don't have the time to help you customize things but I include all the stl and fusion360 files for you for free with no conditions, so knock yourself out have a go at it and good luck.<br />
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So much sanding :-(<br />
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<span style="color: #0000ee;"><span style="color: black;">Before clean up. <br />Some light sanding and glue "squeeze out" being cleaned up. As an experiment I used a new to me, glue that foams and expands to fill gaps for this, so a lot of clean up, but worth it I think.<br /><br /></span></span></div>
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Some more of the glue squeeze out underneath and testing on the old music stand to make sure all that sanding didn't compromise things at all. All good, it spins nicely.<br />
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A light coat of some "Acrylic lacquer grey primer" so I got it looking a little nicer. It will be covered in paint soon enough so wasn't strictly necessary :-)<br />
Then some strategic lighting.......and presto, advertising like quality (Hiding most of the imperfections) lol<br />
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<br />Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-77954779597026570432018-06-13T18:35:00.001-07:002018-06-30T16:32:55.782-07:004. Turntable Update<br />
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<span data-offset-key="ctsvq-0-0"><span data-text="true">I added nubs for turning the turntable which also has room for longer screws.</span></span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="6p1rs-0-0"><span data-text="true">So now there is a distinct Top and Bottom for the desktop version.<br /><br />I made the holes for the screws to suit a 3mm x 50? The hole itself small enough to allow you to either drill out or directly tap with 3mm tap thread.<br /><br />I put in a nut trap to help with adding in a screw. See pictures below</span></span><br />
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Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-81875247444350301672018-06-12T17:41:00.000-07:002018-06-21T19:58:52.913-07:003. Second varient of the turntable to suit a dowel<br />
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<span data-offset-key="75bc8-0-0"><span data-text="true">Ok I added the newest version to the zip file. This is so you can mount it to a pole of some description and just let it spin on the pole. It doesn't require printing 8 quarters and joining, only 4.</span></span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="da7dm-0-0"><span data-text="true">I made a slot for a cable tie if you want, even if just for glue up.</span></span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="a19o6-0-0"><span data-text="true">You can edit the fusion file (Included) to fit most poles you might encounter. This is designed to fit my 22mm pole and is set to 23mm for some slop for spinning.</span></span></div>
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Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-3764607533216831492018-06-12T00:06:00.003-07:002018-07-04T21:44:14.335-07:002. A new Turntable for working on printers<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="color: #0000ee;"><span style="color: black;">So here is the new Turntable. This one will be for sitting printers on, either for working on, fixing or building etc or if they are in an enclosure and I need to reach the sides or back of them.<br /><br /><br />There are 30 8mm ball bearings in this, but 100 would have looked a little fuller :-)<br /><br />Here is a random link to some from ebay:-</span><br /><a href="https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50X-8mm-Steel-Ball-For-Bearing-Slingshot-Ammo-Catapult-Toy-Bike-Outdoor-Game-fK/202129248455?_trkparms=aid%3D555019%26algo%3DPL.BANDIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190540%26meid%3D8785ff9d29584f718c5f8ff3d64cbcf4%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D202129248455&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226">https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50X-8mm-Steel-Ball-For-Bearing-Slingshot-Ammo-Catapult-Toy-Bike-Outdoor-Game-fK/202129248455?_trkparms=aid%3D555019%26algo%3DPL.BANDIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190540%26meid%3D8785ff9d29584f718c5f8ff3d64cbcf4%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D202129248455&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226</a><br /><br /><span style="color: black;">There will be some video of the TT carrying 5 - 10kg of weight to show it can handle the weight below</span>.<br /><br /><span style="color: black;">Here are the stl files and the fusion360 file for you to play with:-</span><br /><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/z26afzy1mpyvbql/2018_Turntable.zip?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/s/z26afzy1mpyvbql/2018_Turntable.zip?dl=0</a><br /><span style="color: black;"><br />Please note this is a prototype and still unfinished but for what it is, it seems to work quite well atm.<br /><br />At some point I might make one that can be printed in one piece to sit on a 400mm x 400mm build plate so you can print it in one piece at a time. Since I include the fusion360 files it is also something you can do for your self so it probably wont be for some time that I get around to it.<br /><br /></span></span><br />
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I used nails and then cut them short as joiners but it is set up to use 1.75 mm filament if need be.<br />
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Glue on a flat surface for best result held by clamps or weights<br />
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Some self adhesive strips of neoprene for grip on the base seems vital for keeping things where you want.<br />
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<span style="color: black;">Here is my PRUSA clone is sitting on the Turntable. Unfortunately it spins and slides on the surface because PLA is slippery</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: #0000ee;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: black;">So, some of that rubber</span></span></span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: black;"> shelf liner is needed to prevent the slipping.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSoLhyphenhyphenlXfBhboa_Ndt-7e2PGfrcE7FIVEGE2wM0ePpyJxjsm3cicSfA3dzvbYlENls7NaVR09D0AAAE-rWWB36cfTbobwtHlhSXz4BBRkxJOXffY-wchc3Txe6WfAd7bIyvRJ3J15lGjk/s1600/20180612_161718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSoLhyphenhyphenlXfBhboa_Ndt-7e2PGfrcE7FIVEGE2wM0ePpyJxjsm3cicSfA3dzvbYlENls7NaVR09D0AAAE-rWWB36cfTbobwtHlhSXz4BBRkxJOXffY-wchc3Txe6WfAd7bIyvRJ3J15lGjk/s400/20180612_161718.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSoLhyphenhyphenlXfBhboa_Ndt-7e2PGfrcE7FIVEGE2wM0ePpyJxjsm3cicSfA3dzvbYlENls7NaVR09D0AAAE-rWWB36cfTbobwtHlhSXz4BBRkxJOXffY-wchc3Txe6WfAd7bIyvRJ3J15lGjk/s1600/20180612_161718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></span>
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<span style="color: black;">I used the old, (now discarded) bottom print as a cutting template and cut out a circle.</span></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfcj5IzewQSqRAqAU0IOqYx0r4NtftpSctuCeWWmXEka39yg6hdieMN6Q6DpzYZcTnWoPPQPCQ4msZ8nfV_ydaFGMAgWF7ZGcO1vPrre3IPbfPbFtDXbA_kihTYn5FWeHK55q8vHafAXQ/s1600/20180612_161752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfcj5IzewQSqRAqAU0IOqYx0r4NtftpSctuCeWWmXEka39yg6hdieMN6Q6DpzYZcTnWoPPQPCQ4msZ8nfV_ydaFGMAgWF7ZGcO1vPrre3IPbfPbFtDXbA_kihTYn5FWeHK55q8vHafAXQ/s400/20180612_161752.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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Then sprayed it with some spray adhesive and suck it down<br />
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWjjvIJBQAPy7HlkwoJO7FBFwMXvU-Yl25FaFPYG-PUXpt19ZNzmifY1prFIC6hmeFcCvRezQnAHR0yaQfDhhDXQHXbtERP05qG13H6_Ujc9tF_uwFdi-CHe4XlvA6VFlxljpCsX5wIwM/s1600/20180612_161953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWjjvIJBQAPy7HlkwoJO7FBFwMXvU-Yl25FaFPYG-PUXpt19ZNzmifY1prFIC6hmeFcCvRezQnAHR0yaQfDhhDXQHXbtERP05qG13H6_Ujc9tF_uwFdi-CHe4XlvA6VFlxljpCsX5wIwM/s400/20180612_161953.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: black;">Here it is working like a charm, even if the printer is sitting on it a little precariously. <br /><br />A little re-balancing got it to sit quietly and spin really well. You could just as easily add a sheet of say 5mm MDF or something to the top so the printer sat a little more balance on it.</span></div>
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Here it is with about 90 bearings in it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADsu-fuItOEP-lG2vAbeCZKc8JKCM8je_LhCBVqIBqBv0tbC7ZdhzQKdw4muHrSCPNUPHbP_kbroR4Bkzofb7PRJtL3ZL8s9fQN0n87k3hP99rHZN3MJ4XE9l71nFj0xeyNI0u548EyE/s1600/20180705_123942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADsu-fuItOEP-lG2vAbeCZKc8JKCM8je_LhCBVqIBqBv0tbC7ZdhzQKdw4muHrSCPNUPHbP_kbroR4Bkzofb7PRJtL3ZL8s9fQN0n87k3hP99rHZN3MJ4XE9l71nFj0xeyNI0u548EyE/s640/20180705_123942.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JV4Z06XLi5TtlTzOHo0-25syBjWz7UnebOncYKEvKb9Ddzh3l_ttg7cEOXlV64XEOXpDOgJN2sL9oexve-x_rgA8aVh-1o_0tJceui4MBVaFFLW_A-SR0sFbfxDxD8LZBErV8lvPLvg/s1600/20180705_123757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0JV4Z06XLi5TtlTzOHo0-25syBjWz7UnebOncYKEvKb9Ddzh3l_ttg7cEOXlV64XEOXpDOgJN2sL9oexve-x_rgA8aVh-1o_0tJceui4MBVaFFLW_A-SR0sFbfxDxD8LZBErV8lvPLvg/s640/20180705_123757.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<br />Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-83334627342102591542018-05-30T19:20:00.000-07:002018-06-23T16:13:52.968-07:001. Designing and making a turntable for painting using 3d printing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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I realise this can be done by pretty much anyone but just seeing how someone else approached this task might have prevented some of my decisions and "Faux Pas" So I hope it helps someone else thinking about making one.</div>
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My old turntable met with a clumsy accident recently, so adding on to
what I learnt from making it, I'm making another one.......or two.<br />
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<img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyr1Zj-awS1k8nuqyC-UfEp8sWsTas7GCUcxVQSdGla_vtsnVrPaxuKretksANSdx4Iu3DWKOyEF53QMARnVkFwJDJ1Tzw2qhsT3TpKWcD7lt4uPGIwRG1Fb9OJbGTo3rg8UiiPavdplE/s640/20180531_104836.jpg" width="360" /></div>
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It is mounted to an old robust music stand which is height adjustable.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTR_IVshODUz66p-o7eR_5ONrPJvxgbDK8RgEEYfnigdyKQiXRZwKo53TG8mceIkpSOAkrf840FdtKCZKXZy9QWTj0xLl0w-u16tnCkSupPl-ofx6azCcJJF2RsCJw-h3pAN6JcAnCCYQ/s1600/2016-03-17+10.15.46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="752" data-original-width="1336" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTR_IVshODUz66p-o7eR_5ONrPJvxgbDK8RgEEYfnigdyKQiXRZwKo53TG8mceIkpSOAkrf840FdtKCZKXZy9QWTj0xLl0w-u16tnCkSupPl-ofx6azCcJJF2RsCJw-h3pAN6JcAnCCYQ/s400/2016-03-17+10.15.46.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here it is outside where I do all my spray painting. I use acrylic lacquer automotive spray paints and have done so for 20+ years so I know them really well. I did a tafe course on spray painting which I used primarily on signs as I was a signwriter for many years.<br />
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I happily spray outside knowing the pros and cons and even spray right next to my car where the paint drys so quickly it ends up just like dust if it doesn't get blown away by the wind first, it just hoses off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZqPK-O-IvUFP9ItX2GT_V_gTm7GlRBGf9g7DNmdC6hhdDKCYnADsLHOapS17E7ha3arxeXKqBIKy3xKuSuU8iwndpPJbjOPD8hA4ps-2nhz1Z64e5YAdXEZL2XC3JH2ifbCYz-ed0Lc8/s1600/biketank.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="773" data-original-width="1087" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZqPK-O-IvUFP9ItX2GT_V_gTm7GlRBGf9g7DNmdC6hhdDKCYnADsLHOapS17E7ha3arxeXKqBIKy3xKuSuU8iwndpPJbjOPD8hA4ps-2nhz1Z64e5YAdXEZL2XC3JH2ifbCYz-ed0Lc8/s320/biketank.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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This bike tank was done so long ago I've forgotten a lot about it. I do remember the client showing me the script Typeface from a magazine and wanting it in gold leaf. This was when gold was around $400 an oz so it would have been 24 carat I think. I was really hoping he wanted some pin striping and other embellishments but for reason of his own he didn't :-(<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho7Qn5Sq8eaAunSX9Dhn-QsNAn6z5TFG_0ctvdkN20qh4VBd78GqNtC8Y0wQYqv641duzpHaUbUUdrB-j62w19ga_B_zlKHYnANwX7Doi238bRcVRq97xkmOpH7kgyDpr2SZvMSAyhCZU/s1600/20180531_104533.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho7Qn5Sq8eaAunSX9Dhn-QsNAn6z5TFG_0ctvdkN20qh4VBd78GqNtC8Y0wQYqv641duzpHaUbUUdrB-j62w19ga_B_zlKHYnANwX7Doi238bRcVRq97xkmOpH7kgyDpr2SZvMSAyhCZU/s640/20180531_104533.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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This is the base where the turntable fits onto the music stand. It is printed in 4 pieces so it can fit on my 3d printer. The broken tabs you can see here when all 4 piece are glued together form a hole which fits on the stand as 23mm diameter. One of the more obvious reasons it broke was the thin walls that make up the hole. The fact that it was something incredibly heavy that broke it in the first place would have just ensured it broke elsewhere :-) So fix number 1: Strengthen the walls.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW5dfHLw4Dl4Pa0EIpDuLC3Z2jq9ZdW5ycowbgv5bGh_tiFZM42yxsOTaKYqR1nMmh4P7oB1yYHOgzgzpvGUBVfY9P5G-XOlhQpZTXY1dnKIWBpYz3OI5ZJf1tT8438NI17z_PsF4CjWI/s1600/20180531_104609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW5dfHLw4Dl4Pa0EIpDuLC3Z2jq9ZdW5ycowbgv5bGh_tiFZM42yxsOTaKYqR1nMmh4P7oB1yYHOgzgzpvGUBVfY9P5G-XOlhQpZTXY1dnKIWBpYz3OI5ZJf1tT8438NI17z_PsF4CjWI/s320/20180531_104609.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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It's flip side. The hole takes the spigot which is connected to the
spider that has wheels on it to help the top turn. This design was based
on my old microwave oven setup. As I found out this complexity was
completely unnecessary as pla is so slick the wheels found no purchase
and I could have just run the two plates on top of each other without
the need for any other intermediate stage.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW5dfHLw4Dl4Pa0EIpDuLC3Z2jq9ZdW5ycowbgv5bGh_tiFZM42yxsOTaKYqR1nMmh4P7oB1yYHOgzgzpvGUBVfY9P5G-XOlhQpZTXY1dnKIWBpYz3OI5ZJf1tT8438NI17z_PsF4CjWI/s1600/20180531_104609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TxT45ACPMhMdwDKYF7hziVbpEWQHslXCM3vyK8Mp4-_PMEhNU7eUmf4YbLnaDuhdc-tgcHZ7rJ22cwaNzoXIzaTJFNecu94JVtQzoY0AWzCjuaeBgi-VOvB4VQaAJiu1Xd7aKsFTciM/s1600/20180531_104651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TxT45ACPMhMdwDKYF7hziVbpEWQHslXCM3vyK8Mp4-_PMEhNU7eUmf4YbLnaDuhdc-tgcHZ7rJ22cwaNzoXIzaTJFNecu94JVtQzoY0AWzCjuaeBgi-VOvB4VQaAJiu1Xd7aKsFTciM/s320/20180531_104651.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbD9vyACNOCxKJTq5GccVpVoR4tMY2jCl2QmKrTEZzi1NiGYBuLSWEDg560RMj0a4yuJjyNSkDimQ0LKUkVCEJdaGrTV6O4-XzHbB1Tfz0z7cPTJPKPBuLQ82GS1NXqrkN4lcD11E7PU/s1600/20180531_104758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJbD9vyACNOCxKJTq5GccVpVoR4tMY2jCl2QmKrTEZzi1NiGYBuLSWEDg560RMj0a4yuJjyNSkDimQ0LKUkVCEJdaGrTV6O4-XzHbB1Tfz0z7cPTJPKPBuLQ82GS1NXqrkN4lcD11E7PU/s320/20180531_104758.jpg" width="180" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="color: #0000ee;"><span style="color: black;">The wheels also ran in a guide just in case it wanted to wander off</span>.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhppuQhexkskKI8U5vwQ-10xRwm5N_6VfVKj3smcFoYAx97_mJLYLoNNa8Qd0tJpEM4ykSEPXlTHcBXyFpaOsS7kprVno_d1HRHLJz0wyXHpphARPOblNERqA2Kca1LvPL_yqv7oL7rPMA/s1600/20180531_104906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhppuQhexkskKI8U5vwQ-10xRwm5N_6VfVKj3smcFoYAx97_mJLYLoNNa8Qd0tJpEM4ykSEPXlTHcBXyFpaOsS7kprVno_d1HRHLJz0wyXHpphARPOblNERqA2Kca1LvPL_yqv7oL7rPMA/s640/20180531_104906.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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So here are the components in reverse order.<br />
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I set out to redesign my painting turntable and here was revelation and design modification number 2.<br />
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I found out that the bits that make up the hole that slide onto the music stand made the bottom piece, turn on the pole quite nicely.<br />
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So all that effort I put into making a lazy Susan like device wasn't necessary. All I needed to do was thicken the walls and to add a bit more stability and add some more length to the sleeve. <br />
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So version 2<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MWwb0-pQ8vbJsIBsY3MxWNuEvpjcxpxBLKm520DMHyshI5uQWgPigzolqSgoZhIyTyFriFWB38rWGeqm39P3vuVzGtwtyo1rh5z1tWN0ARfVPaAwqmiF696tcEkI926oxpUig0lT-Zg/s1600/20180531_104946.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7MWwb0-pQ8vbJsIBsY3MxWNuEvpjcxpxBLKm520DMHyshI5uQWgPigzolqSgoZhIyTyFriFWB38rWGeqm39P3vuVzGtwtyo1rh5z1tWN0ARfVPaAwqmiF696tcEkI926oxpUig0lT-Zg/s320/20180531_104946.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-CygfMWcWB1e4kS7LCv3YikKdpB5yOoMR7hs-l4UBiin_JnNVqeR-ONDLndLNRSo6lldj90QamK5kPpbJv1HFYlkn-K9KyUY2DenmFsxj3bgpxVc2ADz6FqeQan1jZ_-gXmA5EK5Vr-I/s1600/20180531_104929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-CygfMWcWB1e4kS7LCv3YikKdpB5yOoMR7hs-l4UBiin_JnNVqeR-ONDLndLNRSo6lldj90QamK5kPpbJv1HFYlkn-K9KyUY2DenmFsxj3bgpxVc2ADz6FqeQan1jZ_-gXmA5EK5Vr-I/s320/20180531_104929.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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It turns out that in Fusion 360, it is probably better for me to first create a circle then to slice it into sections, than try and make it using an ark that my human eye didn't realise wasn't exactly 90 degrees lol So if you look closely you can see where none of the edges line up to one another properly.<br />
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<b>[EDIT:- It turns out the gap was due to shrinkage in the plastic itself and was consistent so I redesigned the 90 degrees angle to 90.675 which was the shrink percentage of one quarter of the Turntable.]</b></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGpGEdWyA3xhHo9MR8o0b0cilCChrtU9F6KwKDWknyfaLVyYUUFtWbZvktGnl2PFWpRB_Kf44EYmjIgQvXTUqWKbRFJ-ygRlGyrt0aUgiSGYDrrzbnknpcIrfxl7wm5_eUXgzxrn0CdNs/s1600/20180531_105011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGpGEdWyA3xhHo9MR8o0b0cilCChrtU9F6KwKDWknyfaLVyYUUFtWbZvktGnl2PFWpRB_Kf44EYmjIgQvXTUqWKbRFJ-ygRlGyrt0aUgiSGYDrrzbnknpcIrfxl7wm5_eUXgzxrn0CdNs/s640/20180531_105011.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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It works and would have been more than adequate to use but I had also adjusted the way the lap joints met each other and was allowing 0.25 gap.<br />
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This also added to the whole thing having ridges on the top and it turned out to be more accurate to not allow for a gap. It turned out to better to make simple lap joints and sand back if needed so there was not ridge where they meet up.<br />
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So on to version 3.<br />
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I'm still not happy with this from a design /modelling / quantity of filament used, point of view.<br />
....but any of them would have worked adequately and all sins would have been covered in grey primer and out of sight and you wouldn't been any the wiser. <br />
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I made this section different this time around and I'm not really happy with my decisions. Some filing and sanding will get these to join up nicely and glue together really well though.<br />
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For the hole in the centre you could easily model a very small stand so this could sit on a table for example. Or you could model and adapter to accommodate smaller dowel rods available from the local hardware store.<br />
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I was going to offer the fusion file and stl file to anyone who wanted it but if you need something like this then designing and printing your own might be a better road to travel.<br />
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The one piece sits on a 220 x 220 print bed and is 150 x 150mm you simply print 4 of them and glue together.<br />
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<br />Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-21032989968314514592018-04-11T20:18:00.000-07:002018-04-11T20:29:27.429-07:00Testing a new filament<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Fendi Suyanto from <a href="https://www.xtron.com.au/">https://www.xtron.com.au/</a>
contacted me and asked if I would try some of his new filament branded
Mamorubot a while ago and I finally got around to trying it.<br /><br /><br />Normally like a stuck record I tell everyone to do 3 tests on any new filament.<br /><br />A Temperature Tower Test<br />A PID Tune at the ideal temperature from the first test<br />And a extruder multiplier test<br />(I didnt :-)<br /><br />The roll came in plain packaging (see the pics)</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I didn't do any testing and just jumped on in ;-)<br />PLA
is pretty forgiving and will handle a wide range of temps so I picked
205 at the hot end and my usual way too high 65 for the bed :-)<br /></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQY2nr9ePoV_4uQmo14iP_3iUACxEUyipfN7m9-ywlDwid-yWLC5Yz6DUbmAXy264T07-WSq6MFdjplT_RKbFH1G5tC-rgVTgoOkcsAIfVIw6z-0SYK5nNQ2syjFbaub-oiSA4pnr-XU/s1600/20180412_122703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQY2nr9ePoV_4uQmo14iP_3iUACxEUyipfN7m9-ywlDwid-yWLC5Yz6DUbmAXy264T07-WSq6MFdjplT_RKbFH1G5tC-rgVTgoOkcsAIfVIw6z-0SYK5nNQ2syjFbaub-oiSA4pnr-XU/s640/20180412_122703.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So nice on the roll</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The test print was bastet and it ended up with some issues but they were me and my settings, because well.......NOT testing the filament before hand at all. <br /><br />It printed really nicely despite my treating it so badly. With some tests to zero in on the ideal settings for your printer, this stuff will print like butter I've no doubt.<br /></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm the one in GOLD the orange one is abs!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yeah my printer needs some settings adjusted but I really like this brand of filament</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Its a nice colour gold pla+ at around $32.00 plus $9.95 shipping for this premium gold metallic. Other standard pla is about $25.90. The gradient pla looks pretty nice as well :-)</span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While the roll of filament was free to me, I wasn't paid or even asked to do this review. This was off my own bat and feel it's the least I can do in thanks. I really like this metallic gold and happily recommend it. <br /><br />Now all I have to get him to do is send me a roll of all his other stuff in every colour hahhahaha just kidding. Thanks to Mark for setting this up, he gets little thanks for all he does for the 3d printing Australia Facebook page.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/891050284277179/">https://www.facebook.com/groups/891050284277179/</a><br /><br /><br />Try it, I don't think you will be disappointed</span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4888600585190286686.post-29202900099016287842018-02-09T02:10:00.002-08:002018-04-11T19:35:33.659-07:00The Prusa i3 Mk2s clone<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3icWzZWE42SpXZcSbOmp5RCFdmg3WD5bbTtuhusPgwMSJD71M8wpYElBes_9jSUh2Tq1O1b9H3NCKwbG3Q6oumxeMBDU2u4WWEZUAEacp3n6hlp12TxUMOmWmzzkoHlVd49rvq60Otpo/s1600/20180408_115909.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3icWzZWE42SpXZcSbOmp5RCFdmg3WD5bbTtuhusPgwMSJD71M8wpYElBes_9jSUh2Tq1O1b9H3NCKwbG3Q6oumxeMBDU2u4WWEZUAEacp3n6hlp12TxUMOmWmzzkoHlVd49rvq60Otpo/s640/20180408_115909.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Straightening the nylon. It is from a whipper sniper </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Lukethier & 3d Printinghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01652248082007102682noreply@blogger.com0